Building a storage shed

Archive for August, 2010

absolutebasics:
#1 Shop tool: your table saw

Forripping on a table saw, besides good quality features,like belt drive, cast iron top, etc., the most importantis a good fence. You want a fence that is solid andconsistently true, without constantly adjusting it.I’d try to get a good contractor’s saw for a coupleof hundred less than your top end budget—good, namebrand. Then, if time proves the fence a pain, use yourextra money towards a good after-market fence. Biesemeyer,Unifence, Incra are probably the three most popular.A good fence can make even a marginal saw a great tool.
If you do some exploring at a good woodworkers/toolstore, you can certainly test out the fences on varioussaws. However, for a fair comparison, someone will havehad to set the thing up right. This is more likely tohave happened where the store personnel know somethingabout tools. Good luck.
- daveferg

Youwill find that a tablesaw is the most useful tool youcould ever have in your shop. The amount of work itdoes is phenomenal. There are a good number of quiteadequate saws that fall under the $800 mark. You mightalso want to consider a used or reconditioned saw. It’sa good way to get a lot more bang for your buck.
- Chris Moore

Abouta year age I purchased a Dewalt DW 746 TS with a mobilebase for around $900. Have been very satisfied withit so far. It is better than a contractor’s saw in thatthe motor is under the table, not hanging off the back.This allows for storage closer to the wall. It is alsonot as expensive as a cabinet model.
- Monty

I’mnot advocating anyone buy a benchtop, but… (there’salways a but)…
Many years ago, I had no saw and a very restricted budget.After several months of moaning and complaining, LOMLfinally approved the (limited) funding for a saw. Ipurchased a Makita with stand. I still have that saw,and I’ve made some wonderful things with it over thelast 17 years. Yes, it does restrict what you can do,so you learn to do things in other ways. For example,you can’t cut sheet goods with a benchtop, so you learnhow to do it well using a skill saw and straight edge.You can’t get a really keen edge when ripping, so youlearn how to use a hand plane to dress the edge.
The point is, you make due as best you can with whatyou’ve got. If its gotta be a benchtop, then take yourtime, shop around and find the best benchtop saw foryour money. Then enjoy what you have, work safe, andbuild.
- Jules,

AlthoughI would not recommend a bench saw, it’s your money anddecision. If I were to buy a bench saw, I would notpay much more than $200. (I never have figured out whyanybody would buy the Dewalt or Bosch table tops for$500. The kicker is, the Dewalt only uses 13 amps.)
Here’s my advice: Don’t buy any saw that runs on lessthan 15 amps. I believe the Delta is 15. If the standfor that saw costs more than $50,pass on it. You woulddo best either building your own,with extensions orbuy one of those aftermarket jobs that have extensiontables. Make sure you have a heavy-duty extension cord,anythingsmaller than 12 gauge will not give full power. If youcan,keep the extension cord to 25 feet.
Now a word of warning: I agree with every other commentabout saving your money to buy a contractor saw, later,or if you can find a deal on a used one, go for it.You have to remember,contractor saws use induction motors,drive belts and are heavier-duty. It’s not that hardto repair a contractor saw, a new motor can be gottenfor $200 or less. On a benchtop, they use direct driveuniversal motors. Once you blow the motor, and you will,it will be cheaper to replace the whole machine thanthe motor. A good quality contractor saw will last alifetime. You will be lucky if you get five years outof the benchtop saw.
- woodchuck1954

MyBosch sabre saw, a straight edge, some clamps, and aplane got me a long way until I was able to buy a contractorsaw. Just remember that this is a tool that you willhave for a long time, and this is one tool that youdon’t want to skimp on. If you need to wait another6 months to one year or more until you can buy a contractorssaw, I would do it. If you need the portability or don’thave the room for a full size saw, then that changesthings a little.
- Wables

Irecently purchased a Jet saw and I’m very happy withit.
As a guide to any saw purchase you need to considerthe following. (This is aimed at old methane gas likemyself where money is of little consequence.):
Do you have 230 Volt single phase or 208 Volt threephase available where you are going to use the saw?If not, skip the cabinet saws. They all (except oneGrizzly) require either 3 phase (3 and 5 HP motors)or 230 Volts (3 HP motors). The Grizzly needs a 30 Amp115 Volt circuit. (I’ve never seen one and it will haveto be wired using at least 10 gauge wire.)
Typically the next level of saw is called a ‘Contractor’s'saw. The professional usually takes this saw to long-termjob sites. These saws are usually wired for 115 Volts,single phase, by the factory although they may be rewiredfor 230 Volts. These saws are usually 1 or 1-1/2 HP.The vast majority of these saws are very similar exceptfor fences and table extensions. You can get almostany fence system on these saws which may increase thecost by as much as 66%. (Don’t worry, you receive valuefor your money.) There are two types of table extensionsfor these saws, stamped steel or cast iron. (The Rigdidhas an aluminum system for the wings. You can see whatI’m talking about at Home Depot.)
The next level of saw is also a contractor’s saw butit is a bench saw. This model is usually placed on abench for use. This saw is different from the abovesaws in that the saw blade is usually attached directlyto the motor shaft. (The others use an induction motor,<$$$> belt drive and pulleys.) This motor is usuallya “Universal” motor and uses brushes. This type of sawis usually found in the back of a contractor’s pickuptruck and used at every job site. These saws are frequentlyabused both while cutting and while bouncing in thetruck.
What I think that you should look for is the middlegroup of saws. These saws are usually used by the homewoodworker and some professionals. Usually, the decisionfactor is the voltage available. (Mine would have beena cabinet saw except that to put 230 Volts in my garagewould have been an $8000 bill! A very long story.)
My personal path to selecting a saw was to decide uponthe fence system first. Then buy the saw that wouldaccept the fence system. Another requirement of minewas cast iron table extensions. (More weight and morestability.) That narrowed the field down considerably.
Between the Delta and the Jet contractor’s saws, thereis little difference other than the paint color.
My advice to anybody planning a table saw purchase isto select the fence system that you really like. Thenpurchase the saw that fits the fence system. Lou Williams(a frequent Forums participant) has had a Biesemeyerfor 15 years or so. Others love their Unifence or XactaFence and I’m happy with my Incra. There are other fencesystems that I’ve no experience with and you may wantto investigate those systems. The point is to selectthe fence that fits your style of work and then thesaw. I think that if you follow this path you’ll bemuch happier with your final selection.
- Rich

BothJet, Delta, Powermatic, General make very similar contractorsaws. They are all based on a design that was a Deltasaw in the first place. The difference is what option/model/costis right for the user.
Brand names don’t have much real value. Some companieshave better service than others, some companies offerbetter sales but that is about the only difference betweenthis class of saw. Buy whatever one you like. Once youfind the model option that is right for you then findthe best deal. For some people that would be to spendmore money and buy from a local store that will supportyou and get the parts accessories or advice when youwant it. For others that will be the lowest price fromsome internet supplier on the other side of the country.It is up to you.
- Lou_williams

Youneed to make a career of going to garage sales untilyou find an $800 saw for $200. I missed (by 15 minutes)getting a 1940 something Delta Unisaw for $75 last week.Ever heard a grown man whimper?
- John in Chicago

Therecomes a time in everyone’s life, when he/she must backthe family car out of the driveway, and begin the slow,careful drive through the neighbourhood, learning tosafely navigate a somewhat intimidating piece of machinery.
The table saw isn’t much different. It can be very intimidatingat first, but as you use it more and more, you becomeconfident in your abilities and more comfortable.
Most table saw accidents don’t happen with beginners.More often than not, it’s complacency that sets in overtime and experience, over confidence (I done this thousandsof times) and thus, a lack of attention to safety anddetail.
Before you make each and every cut, both now, and 20years from now, stop, take a second to speak the words’Safety First’ and give it one more quick visual survey.If you practice this now, it will become habit.
Don’t try to do it all at once, from the beginning.Only after you’ve had a chance to learn (and do) thebasics with your new saw, to increase your confidenceand comfort level, should you go back to the books,learn additional ways to improve on those skills, buildjigs to get even more from your saw, etc. One step ata time.
- Jules

Ifyou have never used a tablesaw before, I would suggestyou find someone that will show you. A lot of issuesyou simply can not read about in books.
- woodchuck1954

Thefence is more important than saw. Buy a good, middlegrade contractors saw and upgrade the fence to an IncraTS-III. You won’t regret it.
- MadMark

There’sonly so much reading you can do before it just becomesa mass of jumbled irrelevant information.
If you can’t find someone who has a TS who can helpyou out and you still desire to read more then here’sa few titles. Two different books with the same name,but different authors: “The Table Saw Book.” One author’sname is Cristoforo. I can’t remember the other author’sname, but the book is published by Taunton Press. Anothergood one is called, “Table Saw Basics.” The last onehas plans for pushsticks, feather boards, outfeed tables,etc.
All three of these should be available at your locallibrary. I suggest you buy at least one TS book forfuture reference. You will find that once you have theTS set up and in use that is when you will want to referback to instructional books.
Loose Screw

Startwith a good table saw…as you can’t get by withoutone. Make sure that the fence is accurate… meaningthat all you need to do is slide it to 24″ and lockit down… without worrying about the measurement orwhether it’s parallel to the blade. Make sure that youcan rip 24″ using the fence. Get some board buddiesor a similar device for holding down stock and get afeatherboard[used to keep smaller pieces ofstock (board) pressed firmly against your table sawor router's fence] or two and a push stick (geta kit that has all).
- Robert Walker

Theheart of every good wood working shop is a good tablesaw. Buying used one is a viable choice. A well-madesaw is going to last for YEARS. Shop wisely. Good handtools are also important so don’t cheap those out either.
- Jerry

Spenda lot of money for a solid cabinet table saw: minimum3hp and 220V. Make sure it has a rock solid fence withZERO flex and ZERO deflection. Buy the very best carbideblades…at least 2 with 40-60 tooth, which competitivetests have shown produce the smoothest cuts. (Forgetthe combo blades that usually come with the table saw…onlyuse those for cutting 2×4′s, or scrap.)
- C. Scott

Thekey areas in a table saw is the fence. Can it be setaccurately. What’s the motor size?. Can you cut 8/4oak? Take your time and look around.
- Lou

Yourtable saw is the cornerstone of your shop. Any seriouswoodworker will tell you to avoid a bench saw, you cannever be as accurate as you need to be. If you havebeen pricing wood, as well as tools, you know how importantit is to have a powerful, accurate saw. Power and accessoriesare certainly important factors to keep in mind. Benchsaws are very limited. Think long term; dado sets, upgradedmiter gauge, extension tables, outfeed tables, etc.
- Bob

Agood table saw is a must. And if you have time to searchthere are a lot of good buys in the used department.There are a lot of older Unisaws and Powermatics outthere for the right price providing you have some knowledgeabout machinery. For advice, the woodworking Forumsat woodworking.comand the woodweb.comare both good places to start.
- windstu

Whileat a woodworking show, I realized that a saw purchaseis really two purchases; the table saw and the fence system.And in reality the fence system is really the first decision…withthe table saw second. While wandering about this woodworkingshow, the importance for the largest cast iron table topbecame obvious. Also, I don’t expect to be cutting sheetmaterial exactly and precisely in half at 48″ so a 32″fence system is good for now. What is important to meis the ability to perform cuts that are repeatable andvery precisely repeatable.
- rrich

Your tablesaw is the core of your shop. Bench saws aretoys. Save your pennies and get a better saw. If you’reserious about woodworking you won’t regret it. Mostwoodworkers also invest in a “better” fence somewherealong the line. If not when they buy the tablesaw initiallythen when they outgrow ‘em. I was a carpenter as a youngman and after about a 12 year lapse got a bench saw.Couldn’t understand why nothing seemed to come out right.Figured I’d lost my “touch”. Gave it away to a friendwhen I moved. About 15 years after *THAT* I got a contractorssaw and suddenly discovered my “touch” was better thanever! With the addition of my new fence, I’m doing whatI think is very good work. Others must think so tooas they’re paying me to do it!
- MadMark

I don’t think everyone has to buy a contractor saw tobe a happy woodworker. Not knowing your financial situation,my advice would be to buy as good a saw as you can afford.Given, a $100 to $300 benchtop saw isn’t as powerfulor even as durable as a $400 to $800 contractor saw,but if I had to wait until I could afford to throw $400or $500 into a saw plus all the other stuff needed toget started, I might not ever have gotten into woodworking.Start with what you can afford, and move up when youget a little more experience and feel for what kindof tool you need. Heck, I still have my first benchtopsaw to use when my primary tablesaw is set up for aspecific cut and I don’t want to change it, so I don’tthink that first hundred bucks was wasted at all.
- Rod

To help you select the right tablesaw, woodworking.com recommends the following articles: Choosing A Tablesaw Contractor Or Cabinet?

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absolutebasics:
Getting Started

Beforeplunking down any money for tools, get started buildinga good library. By buying books on basic techniquesand also on subjects you are interested in, you willlearn the proper way of tackling your desired projects,safetyissues and books will tell you what tools to use forcertain procedures. Only buy tools as you need them.That way you know you need it and you can budget yourmoney better.
- woodchuck1954

Goto your local community college and they’ll have “woodworking101″ type courses to get the basics under your belt.Then start by doing and amassing your tools. Hang outhere and at other forums and pick up tips and techniques.The days of the apprentice program are pretty well gone.
- MadMark

Thebest place to get the basics under your belt is in astructured environment like a community college. Additionally,you will (probably) get the chance to work with verygood machines and have SAFETY drilled into your headrelentlessly. One other option – or even better: addition- is to hook up with your local woodworkers guild orclub. You’ll find a great group of folks and developa network of contacts with centuries’ worth of experience.
Chris Moore

I’drecommend buying nothing more than a cheap pocketknife(lock blade, small to medium size) and a good Arkansassharpening stone. For material, look in your backyard,local park or forest. Find wood that is dry to workwith. Any dry old branch will work. Start “whittling”.This is how I learned.
This will teach you SEVERAL things that you will helpthroughout your love of wood if you stick with it. Oneis how to sharpen a tool, and the importance of usinga sharp tool. Soon after you tire of the “cheap” blade,I would expect you to get a higher quality one, somethinglike a Schrade+. You will notice that this one holdsan edge longer, so even though it costs more initially,is worth the investment.
Also, by virtue of “whittling”, you are bound to slipand cut yourself. I have several scars from this myself.I still have the scars, because I learned that toolsthat cut wood, cut ME!!! I learned to work SAFELY.
Also, pay attention to the wood you are “whittling”.Some will be soft and easy to cut-others nearly impossible.Find out what type of wood is what. You will also probablynotice that some have different “layers” that are hard/easyto cut. People that just go directly to power toolsoften miss this minor detail.
- GlennS

Generallyyou should buy as you need. Start by selecting a nice”Beginner” project and buy what you need to do that.Then build something else and if you need a new tool,buy that. After a bit you’ll have most everything youneed for the type of work you actually do.
Don’t buy the cheapest nor the best initially. Get agood middle of the road item. After time you’ll learnwhat features you actually need and maybe you’ll growinto a top of the line tool. Also, this limits your$$$ outlay in case you decide you don’t really likeit.
There are tons of discussions on the “Best this or that”.Read what is here in the archives. Take a look at othershops, here’smine.
- MadMark

Startwith books. Basic woodworking books to start,then graduateto books on subjects that interest you. Start with simpleprojects,using only hand tools. If you don’t know anything,startwith a precut kit that needs assembly. Books will notonly tell you how to build projects,but also what toolsare needed. Only you know which direction of woodworkingyou want to go. You will find a lot more details anddiagrams in books than any forum. Books are better thanmags.
- woodchuck1954

Youshould become familiar with a couple of news groups.You’ve found this one, also check out rec.woodworking.To search rec.woodworking try groups.google.com . Anothersource of inspiration is are the TV shows “New YankeeWorkshop” with Norm Abrams and the “Woodwrights Shop”with Roy Underhill. Both have a couple of books outthat are quite good. As for equipment it depends onwhat you want to do, how dedicated you are, your financialresources, and what style you wish to work in. Mostof us use both hand tools and power tools to get thejob done so our tool arsenal is likely to include anew table saw as well as an 80 year old Stanley handplane. Both are very well suited for particular tasks.If you can explain further we can provide a more directedresponse
Steven Wilson

Whichmagazine for beginner?… ALLof them! Read as much as you can get your hands on…usethe Library if you don’t wanna buy them, although theymake a great reference library later on… For a beginnerI’d recommend WOOD or American Woodworker. Fine Woodworkingis a favorite. For reading on the john, you can’t beatretail catalogues…Rockler, Woodworkers Supply, etc.Become an “Information Sponge” and absorb all you canfrom all sources.
- Marc

Checkout all of the woodworking magazines at your local bookstoreor newsstand. Many have free issue offers online aswell! I have to say my favorite is Popular Woodworking,but look at all of them and decide for yourself.
- nwod

Asa beginner myself, yet to actually unbox my tools, Ihave found Wood Magazine and Fine Woodworking to bethe ones that seem to me (as a beginner) to preparethe most. I also really liked the books Router Magic,The Table Saw Book, and the Complete Book of Wood Joinery.Just my $.02
- EdgeWood

Beforeplunking down any money for tools, get started buildinga good library. By buying books on basic techniquesand also on subjects you are interested in,you willlearn the proper way of tackling your desired projects,safetyissues and books will tell you what tools to use forcertain procedures. Only buy tools as you need them.That way you know you need it and you can budget yourmoney better.
- woodchuck1954

If your still setting up your shop shopnotes is thebest, I’ve had my shop for 3 years now and still loveshopnotes, its not like your average magazine checkit out www.shopnotes.com and when your ready for somereally nice projects get woodsmith www.woodsmith.com
- Jeff

Lookfor some woodworking classes which are many times offeredfree through night classes at local schools (adult education)etc. Once you do that you should have some idea as tohow much you want to pursue woodworking whether it behope chests or birdhouses. If it is a serious woodworkingdesire, then the tablesaw is in my opinion your firstpurchase. When purchasing any woodworking equipmentremember that cheap is not necessarily. The best. Anotherway to say this is “TO START WITH LESS IS TO END WITHLESS” If it is to be a short hobby, plan it so. If itis serious, plan it so.
- Kelly

Asfar as tools go, you do want to get something good,I personally like Sears Craftsman and Delta. Both aregood quality and work very well. On mine, I have madea many projects ranging from my computer desk to yarddecorations. You will want to take it at a steady paceon equipping yourself as the bench power tools can runup the bucks in a hurry.
- Gary

Jumpin and enjoy, you will never regret it. Best adviceon tools:
1) Take a safety class that will also let you cut somewood for your own project, as nothing beats a squarelycut and proper sized part.
2) A tablesaw is really a good investment, and doesn’tbreak the bank, but requires a little room to use. Myfirst major tool purchase.
Note: Elaborate tools make a job easier, and look moreprofessional, but you can have a great project withjust a hammer and a nail and a piece of wood. Alwaysenjoy the time and the aroma of sawdust!
- RayMan

Theadvise about books is the best. Buy books that coverwhat you are interested in. It might be a good ideato start out with precut kits. Then you will get experiencewith hand tools.
Get familiar with completing projects with most handtools before you start evolving into machinery. $5000worth of tools will not make you a craftsperson, onlytime, education and patience will get you there.
Once you get going, acquire more books just like youacquire more tools. If you buy books on subjects thatinterest you, they will tell you what tools you willneed. Only buy tools as you need them.
At first, don’t worry about sizing lumber, you can buyalready planed lumber at different widths for generalprojects. All you will need to do is cut to length.Keep it simple at first.
When purchasing tools, listen to your head, not yourheart. Before making large purchases, do your homeworkand do a complete research. If you see something forsale, that seems like a ridiculous price, there’s probablya reason. Unless you know what it is, its no bargain.
And finally, when shopping for tools, make sure theoutfit you buy from, offers a 30 day-no-risk-guarantee…thenthe risk is all theirs. You would be surprised at howmuch a person can do with wood and with a few tools.
- Roger S. Dillman

Welcometo a most rewarding hobby:
- Your first purchase “should” be a table saw becauseit is very versatile… you can cut angles, rips (lengthwise)and crosscuts. Depending on your choice of saws, you’llprobably drop about a thousand dollars by the time youpay the sales tax and get a blade, or two, or three.
- You’ll need an assortment of basic handtools suchas: hammer, nail set, tape measure, combination square,a set of chisels, channel lock pliers, needle nose pliers,various clamps, etc., etc. You can expect the expenseto add up to about $300 or so for a good starter set.
- Then, for handheld powertools: sander (almost anywill do at first, either a “finishing” 1/4 sheet ora small random orbit), some type of drill and a bitset or two, a router and bits, a jigsaw, and perhapsa circular saw. Another $500 or so.
IMPORTANT: Shop around! Watch the ads. Pawn shopsare a great source of quality inexpensive handtools.And every now and then, you’ll get lucky and find areal bargain on a hardly used powertool.
Well, now that I’ve spent $1800 or $1900 for you, letme suggest a few titles you may want to read first (andguess what? Another $60…)
“Woodworking Wisdom” Nick Engler
“Table Saw Techniques” Roger Cliffe
“Woodworking With The Router” Bill Hylton
These are great sources of information. You’ll learnthe terminology and some basic safety procedures alongwith many of the do’s and don’ts. Many cabinet shops(mine, for one) are constantly looking for entry level,part-time employees. Perhaps you can earn while youlearn.
- Robert

I don’t know if buying the best tools is necessarilythe right choice. That depends on how involved you planto be .I think that some of the top of the line namebrand tool can be real pricey, where some of the midrangepriced tools will do an adequate job with satisfyingresults. Good luck. You are entering a field where itcan be very enjoyable and addicting.
- Tony K

Yourquestions could be answered by reading almost all ofthe post on the Forum.I would recommend that you get a couple of good bookson woodworking. Check into your local adult ed. at highschools and community colleges for classes on woodworking.That would get you some hands-on training. I would giveyou one piece of advice on buying tools. Don’t buy anytool until you know you need it and then buy the bestyou can find. Cheap tools are not a bargain, they willcost a lot more later when you have to buy the one youshould have at first. I would recommend the followingbooks:
“The Basics of Craftsmanship”
“Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking”
They will give you a good overview of lots of topic.
- Lou Williams

Thereare many books available on this subject. One of thebest is, “Creating Your Own Woodshop” by Charles Self(Betterway Books). Once you have the plan, money isthe only real obstacle.
- ken sain

Unfortunately “Creating Your Own Woodshop” is out of print, but may be available at your library and some bookstores.
As an alternative, woodworking.com recommends: Setting Up Your Own Woodworking Shop by Bill Stankus.

Booksdo have their place but I’d recommend you start witha woodworking course. This way you’ll get hands on tuitionwhich is the best way to learn. Once you’ve masteredthe basics, then books can help with the details.
- Dave in Cairns

Checkout night classes from Adult Education at local highschools, etc. They are cheap and well worth the timeand experience you’ll get. “Setting Up Shop” by SandorNagyszalanczy is a practical guide for designing andbuilding your dream shop. Also, check out Norm’s shopplans at newyankee.com.
- Ralph

WhatI would do if I were just starting is look for a classat the local high schools or junior college adult ed.There you would be able to try your hand at task andtools and decide which direction you want to try.
- Lou

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absolutebasics:
Floor plans and shop layout

Lighting…Iuse almost all Halogen in my shop. It has two bulbsin each light fixture and it works well for all thelighting needs I have. It is very bright and leavesvery little shadow effects due to their being two lightsin each fixture. I have several fixtures that are targetedat different areas, bench, table saw lathe, etc.
- Bill

Lighting…Iprefer fluorescent with a few low wattage incandescentto kill the flickering phenomena, headaches for someand nervousness for others and nothing for all the rest.I have found that halogen if not applied properly willcause hot spots and shadows. It seems to have a glarethat my eyes are sensitive to.
- dicklaxt

Paintingthe walls…There is a product called seal-cretethat does a great job of sealing concrete, block orwood for that matter. I used it as a primer on my barnshop. Anyhow it works very well as a first coat , youcan even mix some latex in and use it as a primer. Paintalways stick to it very well and it adds a moisturebarrier just in case. Found in most store HD, Lowesetc.
- rogerfitz

Paintingthe walls…The brand that I would recommend andthat is carried by most home centers (i.e. Home Depot,Lowe’s, etc.) is UGL Drylok (United Gilsonite Laboratories).This is the same company that makes Zar finishing products.It is technically a water sealer and not a paint, althoughit applies like a paint and the finished surface lookslike paint. UGL expands on curing and actually fillsthe small voids in the block to create a continuousbarrier to water. There are two versions: an oil basedproduct will stop even water under pressure and a latexversion that is low odor and easier to clean up. Theoil based product is fully tintable and the latex productcomes in white, gray, blue and beige.
Gloss finish makes a huge difference, Rich. I paintedevery surface (floors, walls, and ceiling) of my shopwith an gloss white epoxy floor paint. Reflects lightlike crazy and the hard smooth surface does shed finedust a little easier.
- Chris Moore

Iam one of these woodworkers who can never find anything5 minutes after I have laid it down or I am piling itemson my work surface-I have decided a portable work bench( on wheels) works great-you can place your tools orcut material on that and have it out of your way orin a place where you can find it easier-this enablesyou to move the surface to wherever you are working-itcan also be used for an extension table for your tablesawor your mitre saw. It has many uses and can be madeto fit your needs.
- Durad4ayn

Fastwalls for your shop… Whenwe moved into our house, I didn’t have time to reallyset up a practical shop. There were too many other “home”projects to complete. So I bought a roll of heavy (3-mil?)plastic, secured a corner of the basement, and proceededto hanging the plastic around my “shop” from the floorjoists in the basement ceiling. I created a “strip”door entrance to the area. We’ve been there four yearsnow, and I still have the plastic up. It functions perfectlywell – keeps the dust contained.
- Richard

Questionsto ask when setting up your shop:
Where would you put the big tools? I think there isa lot of utility in being able to walk up to your sawespecially and use it without having to clean it off,plug it in, or position it. That tends to locate thesaw centrally in the shop. Look at the working footprintof the machine when you are ripping and crosscuttinga 4×8 sheet of plywood. If you overlay this onto yourdrawing you’ll probably find there are only a couplelocations for it in its operating position.
Where would you put a dust collector? The location ofthe DC is driven by where the saw and other tools are.Place them and the DC will sort of take care of itself.You might consider an enclosure for it to keep the noisedown.
Where would a bench go? The bench is like the saw, youwant to step up to it and use it without having to dosomething else first. The placement will depend a loton if you need / want to use it as a support table forthe saw and/or if you want to work or walk around allfour sides or not. Place the saw and bench first.
What kinds of storage would you recommend for the varioussundry things I’ll need? Wall cabinets hung up witha French cleat system. This will allow you to move allyour storage around because it isn’t permanently fixedto the wall. The cleat system also makes it easy tohang jigs and other assorted shop items on the wallas well.
Would you paint the floor? What with? If it were meI would paint the floor, you can get epoxy paint forthis, concrete stain might work too. I would also suggestpainting the walls and ceilings white. Do all this paintingstuff now before you do anything else because it issuper-easy to do now and it will brighten things upquite a bit.
Anything else? Yes, after you have painted everything,put LOTS of lights in, you almost can’t have too muchlight. As a guide, I have eight 4′ twin tube fluorescentand seven 100w halogen bulbs in my shop which is about25% bigger than your space.
Put everything on wheels. This will allow you to reconfigurethe layout later and create space when you need to.
- Phil B

Measure you present tools and get the dimensionson what you are going to buy, make yourself some cutoutsto scale and then just play with them. You can makeall sorts of different arrangements in just a few minutes.Once you have decided on your layout you next have tothink about power distribution and lighting and futureequipment
It takes a lot of thought, try to get what you wantthe first time its much easier that way than to haveto tear something out because you forgot something orhad a better idea.
- dicklaxt

Areyou planning to work with full sheets of ply for example?Then you want an easy entry to the shop. You want enoughroom in front of and behind the TS to handle the sheets.If you are going to do a lot of work with solid wood,then you want the jointer and TS to have a good relationship.I go back and forth between those two constantly. Iwant them next to each other so I don’t waste movementand energy.
- Lou Williams

Thinkof where you will want to build a lumber rack. And don’tsell yourself short on space for this.
I purchased a dozen heavy duty 24″ brackets from LeeValley Tools (www.leevalley.com), rated at 600 lb. loadcapacity per bracket. I made the entire back wall ofthe shop into a lumber rack, and filled it with my covetedclear yellow cedar, along with some ruff pine and otherstuff. It didn’t take long before I had a load of Hemlockstickered on the floor, then another pile of 2X8 yellowcedar next to it, then came 150 BF of maple, and beforetoo long, I was right back to where I started.
It seems like every time I go to the local ‘wood store’,mill or the big city, I go through their supply andbring home a few more pieces of good lookin’ wood, forfuture (yet to be thought of) projects. If your likemost of us, you’ll never have too much wood on hand.(Drives the wives crazy…”You bought more wood???”)On the other hand, if your a buy-it-as-you-need-it kindof woodworker, a smaller rack will do. In either case,think about building a rack.
- Jules

Thebest way to layout your shop is to make a scaled drawingof the space and cut out paper scaled shapes of thetools you want to use. For a table saw, include thespace around it you need to use it. They just like paperdolls move them around until you like the way it is.You also might want to pre-plan before you put in thefloor and run power and dust systems to the locationfor the tools under the floor.
- Lou Williams

Whenstarting my new shop, I started out with the two partNYWS video of Norm building a garage workshop. Whilefine tuning the plans for height, depth and cabinetlayout, I saw issue #54 Shopnotes with the rolling toolcart. Suddenly it hit me. I could have a truly individualizedset of very versatile workspaces if I replaced all thecabinets with rolling carts. The workbench would becomea series of stalls that the carts park in when not inuse. So far I am very pleased with the results. I havecompleted the rolling tool cart, and the second cartis a rolling router cabinet. Four more carts are inthe works. The next cart will be a tool chest with lotsof drawers, similar to the mechanics tool chests. Afterthat, a cart for the portable plainer, the scroll sawand a yet to be determined cart are planned. All thecarts will be the same height, and surfaced with hardboard.This allows me to configure one or more smaller workbenchesthroughout the garage as needed by whatever projectI am working on. For casters, I use four swivel lockingcastors from HD for each cabinet. They are easy to move,and with all four castors locked, the cabinet simplydoes not budge. I hope this will give you some ideas
- Bill Endress

Generaltip. Make all your roll around cabinets the same heightas you table saw outfeed. This way you can cut stock,slide it onto a table and roll it to another workstation(which, ideally, is also at the table saw outfeed height).This minimizes lifting and allows you to swap out tablesinterchangeably. Beyond that is basic face frame kitchencabinet with wheels instead of toe kick. Not particularlydifficult. Put in drawers, shelves, whatever you need.Size to your tools.
- MadMark

Youshould get a dehumidifier for the shop whether you arein the basement or your garage. Yeah it adds to theelectric bill but so does everything else in the house.It’ll really reduce the amount of rust forming on anyof your tools and reduces the chances of molds and mildewsgrowing and thriving and eventually giving you a nastysinus infection. I turn mine on in April and don’t turnit off until late November/early December. I live inNE PA and that is the humidity season.
karl in pa

Starton the web and look at some shop plans and hints forstarting a shop.
- Robert Walker

woodworking.com recommends:
Cad Files for Woodworkers
Workshop Hints/Workshop Layout
Workflow Planning
Saws ‘n Dust
Idea Shop I (for 14′ x 28′ space)
Idea Shop 2 (for 24 x 24′ space)
Idea Shop 3 (for 12′ x 16′ space)
Idea Shop 2000 (for 12′ x 20′ space)

Ifyour area is small (as is mine), you will have to consider”working” space. The space you will need to do actualmilling operations. I solved my problem by mountingall my larger pieces of equipment on rolling bases.Since I work out of my double car garage (running outmy wife’s car on the weekends), I simply roll the saw,router, planer or what have you, to my garage door andmake saw dust. It’s much easier to clean up afterward.
- Jerry

Also,set up the shop power on its own electrical sub-panel.You will also want to look at some of the differentideas in setting up your shop (see Norm’s ideas at “www.newyankee.com),sketch out your available space and draw in the allof the equipment you “want” to put in the shop. Afterdeveloping the sketch of space and equipment, you canalso see if you have room for all you desire or youmay have to settle for less or buy equipment that performsmultiple tasks.
- Ralph in San Diego

Ihave two “benches” in an L configuration in my shop. Oneis a 8′ x 3′ folding table and the other is a 2′ dooron some sawhorses. Depending on the type of work you doan expensive bench may be overkill. I use a routing padto hold work in place for sanding and it works well forall but the smallest pieces. I don’t do carving or handplaning so there is little need for a vice or bench dogs.A soft top on your bench is (IMHO) better than a hardone. You want the bench to ‘give’ instead of dinging yourprojects! I’m not going to make a bench out of somethingI’m going to worry about. A benchtop is a *work* surface.Mine has glue spots, nicks, drill holes, stains, etc.all over it. Doesn’t bother me a bit and doesn’t impactit’s usefulness either. Some folks like a nice “formal”bench. They want the top to be beautiful. However if youcan *SEE* the top of your bench then you’re not doingmuch work! I run a continuous stream of projects thruthe shop (typically several at different stages) and mostdays you can’t see enough of the top to tell what colorit is much less admire the finish. And I *DO* clean!
- MadMark

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The Woodworking Router is the most precise cutting tool in your shop. If not, you can learn how.

Pat Warner, woodworking router expert, had a great influence on me. His original three books,

Getting the Very Best from Your Router The Router Joinery Handbook Fast, Easy & Accurate Router Jigs

combined to improve my skills dramatically. All of these books are out of print. I want to share with you several of these skills.

Would you like to improve your skills?

• You can learn how to use a Router in a variety of ways.
• A Router can substitute for several woodworking machines.
• Router Jigs help you make precise joints.
• Router Bits are far cheaper than Jointer blades.
• You have to start somewhere. Learning to use the Router will make your skills come alive!

Woodworking Router TypesAs you know, there are all types of routers on the market. Sometimes it is hard to know which one(s) you should use.

I have used several over the years. Does it make sense to purchase a router to do the intended work? Fixed-base routers for Router Table work, edge work, and pattern work. Plunge routers for inside work and multiple depth work.

I favor having two. One mounted in your Custom made Router Table and one for portable use. I use both quite frequently. They are very precise! You will like having a powerful router in your router table to make fancy profiles. This type does not bog down when using large cutters.

The router table has multiple uses, as explained on that page. You can take the router out of the router table, and use it for several jigs and patterns.

These are the ones I like the best:

Dewalt 621- 2HP Plunge Router
• Electronic variable speed motor with soft start. Runs at 8,000-24,000 rpm with constant speed under load to ensure a quality finish.
• The 621 has the best plunge action.
• The best hand ergonomics of all routers. You can plunge, lock, start the motor, steer, and stop with your hands always on the control knobs. Safety Upfront!
• You can easily hit target depth of cut. Rack and pinion depth adjuster, with micro-fine adjusting allows quick, accurate set-up.
• Dust Collection is built-in. It works Great!
• Easily change router bits. Spindle lock button allows one-wrench bit change.
• Easy to change collet sizes.
• Excellent use of edge guides.
• Guide Bushing adapter plate accepts standard guide bushings for template work.

Porter Cable 7518 3HP Fixed Base Router
• Speedmatic 5-Speed motor maintains constant speed under load.
• Soft start for smooth performance.
• Very precise depth adjustment Works great!
• Aluminum motor housing prevents heat build-up.
• Auto release collets.
• Low vibration and clean cuts Really nice!
• Ideal for table mounting.

You can purchase both/either of these routers at Amazon.com, formerly Tool Crib of the North. However, you may find them cheaper elsewhere.

If you need help in finding a good price on a woodworking router, see the Best Place to Buy Page!

A Custom Made Router Table

You will really enjoy this router table. It is the third one I made. I sold the other two. This design is unique, making this router table the envy of your fellow woodworkers.This page includes ideas on a good, solid Router Table Top.

An Excellent Shop Built Router Fence

You can spend a lot of money on a table fence that may not have quality components. I spent a lot of time developing this Router Table Fence to make sure it measures up to quality. The design is unique and gives excellent results. Take a look at the short video clip.

A Different Type of Router Lift

You can spend hundreds of $$$ on a fancy router lift. On the other hand, you can make your own that is more versatile and under $25.

What Router Bits Should You Buy?

You can save a lot of money if you want quality and know where to shop! High-class router bits give you a better quality cut and save you money as well.

Want to make your own Custom Edge Guides?You can with these plans! Save some money in the process.These edge guides help you do a lot of things.Router Jigs and Templates

Woodworking router templates are truly an amazing process. Clamping both template and your wood to your workbench is fast and easy. You will learn how to use templates to their maximum advantage.

How to Use a Router Table

You will find tips and techniques using the Router table to increase your skills.The router table is excellent for edge-to-edge joinery. Some of the other uses are simple.As you grasp the concepts, you will wonder why you didn’t think of that before.

How to Joint with a Router Table

Using the Router Table for edge jointing is practical and safe.Here are some tips and techniques to make it easy for you. Once you understand this, you will save some money!

Router Safety

These router safety tips & techniques should help you in using your woodworking router.Using a router should be safe and fune!

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This woodworking auction is for quality woodworking clamps. You can never have enough woodworking clamps. This woodworking tools auction provides quality Bessey clamps for woodworking.

I’ve tried most types of woodworking clamps. The clamp with the red handle (made in Germany) did not last very long. They are hard to tighten. When you try to loosen, the red handle spins. It does not loosen the clamp. They are a waste of time and money.

Regular C-Clamps (on the left) do not have the reach that you frequently need. Also, they are slow to open and tighten. The Bessey Sliding Arm Clamp is far easier to use, and is a lot quicker. It gives you better pressure and reach than most bar clamps or C-Clamps. This is by far the best clamp for tight or small places. After I tried Bessey clamps woodworking, I quit using C-clamps.

On larger Bessey clamps woodworking, I favor the Bessey K-Body. Nearly all of the other clamps I tried had major flaws. They did NOT keep anything square. Do NOT waste your money on the hype!

Bessey K-Body’s have true parallel jaws. There exceptional design and superior manufacture provide a lifetime of perfect glue-ups for every woodworker.

The Bessey cabinet door kit is a huge favorite of woodworkers everywhere, and for good reason. The K-Body Bessey clamps for woodworking have rock-solid, non-marring, glue-resistant jaws. The Bessey K-Body spreads pressure evenly across a surface, which eliminates bowing and lifting.

The cabinet kit includes two 24″ clamps, two 40″ clamps, and one KP block set.. See the last auction for this Kit, and read the reviews while you are there.

This woodworking tools auction focuses on Bessey clamps woodworking.Do not buy cheap woodworking tools. Buy good woodworking tools at a fair price.

This woodworking auction give you a good prices on the Best Woodworking Clamps!

More items are available by clicking on the “View all xxx items on eBay” at the bottom left.

Look for the cabinet kit below. It includes two 24″ clamps, two 40″ clamps, and one KP block set.

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This woodworking auction provides you with an extra set of very strong hands. Solid hand tools for woodworking can improve your work. A bench vise helps you make smoother cuts, whether using a hand plane or sander.

A woodworking vise is an indispensable woodworking tool. A bench vise holds your work steady in a variety of positions. A quality bench vise lets you set up your work faster.

Auctions of woodworking tools include two basic types of bench vises – Front Vises and an End Vise. Generally, you mount a Front Vise at the left or right corner of your workbench. A cast iron variety with a quick release mechanism is the best. A quarter turn of the handle releases the screw and allows you to position the vise anywhere along its opening range.

Look for a vise that opens wide enough to accommodate the thickest piece of stock you use. Remember that you subtract the thickness of the wooden pads for jaw faces. A 9″ capacity vise with 3/4″ thick pads gives you 7 1/2″ wide opening. This is plenty in most situations. However, the odd possibility does arise when more comes in handy.

To keep the jaws parallel, the diameter of the screw and the alignment rods make the most difference. A 7/8″ diameter screw and equally beefy rods offer rigidity to keep the jaws from flexing outward at the top under normal working conditions.

The first woodworking auction gives you a good prices on Quality Vises! The second section gives you a quality End vise and front vises from excellent vendors.

Do not buy cheap hand tools for woodworking. Buy good woodworking tools at a fair price.

More items are available by clicking on the “View all xxx items on eBay” at the bottom left.

Hartville Tool Jorgensen Vises The worlds easiest open/close vises.

End Vise12” Quick Release End ViseHeavy-duty, easy-to-install steel vise will be the workhorse of your custom workbench! Machined pivoting nut engages or releases with a 1/4 turn of the 1″ dia. main screw so you can easily re-position your workpiece. Extra-wide 12″ O.C. guide rods provide maximum resistance to racking, while extra-wide 17-1/2″ handle plate delivers maximum stability to handle any project.

12” Quick Release End Vise

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These wood projects to build come from Readers of Proven Woodworking. This page is dedicated to showcase the efforts of fellow woodworkers. You will find some really nice projects to build in your shop.

Now, you can submit your own Tip, Project or Improvement in the Form at the bottom of the Page. This is Fun for everyone.

And you can see links to all of the submitted projects towards the bottom of this page. Let’s have a great time!

For the next three items (all from Arizona), You may contact me, and request information. Put name of project and Author’s name in the “Questions/Comments block”. I will forward your message to the author, and he/she will contact you directly from there. Each Author determines his/her own price for the idea.

I want to maintain the privacy of these woodworkers. Remember, they have time constraints. Their response should be within 4-5 days.Special Bonus – Ron Betz’s Router Raizer

You won’t want to miss this innovative idea. A fellow woodworker submitted his version of a true Router Raizer.

A Real Treat from Arizona – A Baby Cradle!

This is a nice looking baby cradle. Look at the detail! Moreover, Skip’s lovely wife Meg is smiling brightly. Would you like to make a baby cradle that makes your spouse smile like that? You can! “How to Build a Baby Cradle” by Skip H.

A Surprise from Arizona – Guitars

These nice looking “guitars” are hand-crafted by Skip H. Pretty nice work, don’t you think?The guitar is made from a Martin D28 specs. The top is spruce, and sides and back are Indian rosewood.Interested? “How to Build a Guitar” by Skip H.

Another great Surprise from Arizona – Router Table Fence!

This looks like a nice router table fence that you can build in your shop! You get the satisfaction, while saving some money. Build this nice Router Fence in your own workshop. “How to Build a Router Fence” by Skip H.

Have A Great Tip or Project to Share?

Everyone has their favorite Wood Project or Tip. What is your favorite Wood Project to Build?

Share it!

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These terms and conditions do not affect your statutory rights as a consumer.

Delivery

We will deliver the Goods to the address you specify for delivery in your order. It is important that this address is accurate. Please be precise about where you would like the Goods left if you are out when we deliver. We cannot accept any liability for any loss or damage to the Goods once they have been delivered in accordance with your delivery instructions.

We will aim to deliver within the quoted time frame but delivery times are not guaranteed. If delivery is delayed due to any cause beyond our reasonable control, the delivery date will be extended by a reasonable period and we will contact you to arrange an alternative time.

Plant Warranties

We aim to provide high quality plants and products to our customers. Accordingly, we warrant that where the Goods are products and not already covered by a manufacturer’s guarantee, they will meet their specification and will be free from defects in materials and workmanship at the time of delivery. Where the Goods are hardy plants, we warrant that they are covered by a one year guarantee. If the plant should die of natural causes up to one year after they have been delivered, we will replace it free of charge. (Subject to our aftercare instructions). We further undertake that they will be in good condition at the time of delivery and will be of the type ordered, or if that type is not available we will let you know by e mail and, if possible, suggest a suitable alternative which is available. If you do not want the alternative suggested, you will be entitled to order another plant or cancel your order, as you wish.

The availability, price and colour of plants we sell to you may vary according to seasonal and market availability. We will endeavor to confirm these details when we confirm your order for the plants or prior to delivery. If there have been any material variations, you will have the option of canceling your order.

Complaints

If you wish to complain about any aspect of our service, please email us at info@best4plants.co.uk

Our full list of Terms and Conditions can be found here: www.best4plants.co.uk/terms

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The AIA Seattle Diversity Roundtable welcomes all to a half-day Forum including a community design workshop, exploring opportunities for engagement of design professionals of all generations with community groups and civic leaders, to assist in the creation of healthy and vibrant neighborhoods. The diverse environment of the South Park community offers a unique laboratory with special prospects for positive community design achievement.

This Forum reflects the Diversity Roundtable’s intention to reach out to youth from diverse communities to engage them in the power of design – through support of Denice Hunt K-12 Internship recipients at the UW College of Architecture & Urban Planning, among other programs, in the spirit of AIA150: “In 2007, the Members of The American Institute of Architects will mark the AIA’s 150 years of service to the profession and the nation by working with their communities to create a better future by design.” Attendance at this Forum will broaden understanding of and participation in addressing issues facing the South Park community, occupying critical sites in the Duwamish River Watershed adjacent to Boeing’s main facility.

Background: In 2005, Denice Hunt K-12 Intern Greg Squires, with Mark Haizlip and students at Concord Elementary, worked together to create a garden shed at Marra Farm, in Seattle’s historic, diverse, and proud South Park neighborhood. In June 2005, AIA 2007 President RK Stewart FAIA joined others in AIA Seattle’s annual Solstice Procession (pictured below) brought AIA and community leaders to key South Park sites.

Forum Agenda:
Noon Registration
PLEASE NOTE: no lunch provided on site. Please feel free to bring your lunch, or plan to stop by Muy Macho Mexican Grill, 8515 14th Ave S
12:30pm Welcome & Introductions
… M. Mario Campos AIA, AIA Seattle Diversity Roundtable Chair, AIA national Diversity Committee
… Peter David Greaves AIA, AIA Washington Council President 2007, AIA Seattle AIA150 Champion
… Clarence Kwan AIA, AIA national Diversity Committee 2006 Chair

12:45pm “What We Learn from Marra Farm”
… “Working with the Community/The Garden Shed:” Greg Squires (Denice Hunt K-12 Intern 2005) & Mark Haizlip
… Steve Badanes, UW Professor of Architecture
… Lee Harper, Assistant Director, Fremont Public Association

1:45pm “Recent Experience Working with the South Park Community”
… Opportunities in South Park: Mark Johnson, Jones & Jones
… The South Park Library/Working with the Community: Mary Johnston AIA, Johnston Architects
… The Bridge: Geoff Belau
… South Park Leadership in Duwamish River Cleanup: Cari Simson & BJ Cummings, Duwamish River Clean-up Coalition

3pm “Community Futures Workshop: Addressing South Park Environmental and Community Design Issues”
… M. Mario Campos AIA, Facilitator
… Peter David Greaves AIA, AIA Washington Council President 2007, AIA Seattle AIA150 Champion
… Clarence Kwan AIA, AIA national Diversity Committee
. The Hon. Richard Conlin, Seattle City Councilmember
… The Hon. Dow Constantine, King County Councilmember

5:30pm Closing Reception

REGISTRATION CLOSED

Click above for secure online registration.
Thanks to sponsorship by Jones & Jones and Johnston Architects, AIA Seattle welcomes South Park residents as guests, by advance reservation. Please contact AIA Seattle Events Coordinator Lisa Duncan, 206.448-4938×106 to request complimentary participation.
THANK YOU.

Lunch break in the shed-in-process at the Marra Farm Garden Party 5/14/05 (photo by Clarence Kwan):
Row 1: Their mom with Adam & Sammy; Denice Hunt Intern Greg Squires
Row 2: Jennifer the agro-anthropology student, Marga Rose Hancock, Eric Higbee
Row 3: Dave, Woody, and Suzanne Haizlip; Mario Campos
Row 4: Mark Haizlip

Background:
Members of the AIA Seattle Diversity Roundtable, in partnership with colleagues at the UW Department of Achitecture and Fremont Public Association, have undertaken a series of events and projects in Seattle’s historic, diverse, and proud South Park neighborhood, centered at Marra Farm.

These efforts follow in the path initiated by 2005 Denice Hunt K-12 Intern Greg Squires and his project partner Mark Haizlip in a garden shed design/build project for Marra Farm undertaken with students at nearby Concord Elementary School (as pictured above). In June 2005, the AIA Seattle Summer Solstice Procession included a “Natural & Community Wonders” Tour of South Park, including the Duwamish Watershed Restoration, downtown South Park, and Marra Farm

Clarence Kwan AIA of the AIA Seattle Diversity Roundtable, also a member of AIA’s national Diversity Committee, advises that the Roundtable also plans to launch a project bridging design professionals with the local community, and encourages all AIA Seattle Members to take part all along the way. Watch for details soon on this exciting project with ‘AIA150′ implications.

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This is my first post. I joined a few weeks ago. I have recently gotten back into woodworking after a long time out of it. My grandfather was a woodworker/boat-builder all of his life. He taught my father who taught me some things when I was younger but the interest in all the actual work was lost on me due to being young and stupid. The things that I did absorb from him was the true appreciation of wood and what it takes to make beautiful projects. It stuck with me so well I get physically sick seeing pressed fiberboard furniture…:)

In August 2009, my Father passed away from cancer at 65. I always thought I would share time with him doing projects when he retired but he only made it to a month after retirement. So after dealing with his passing I have decided to make woodworking the way I will honor my Father’s memory. Sorry to vent a little, so here is another reason for choosing to do this…I get to buy more tools…

I am starting out small, I will be making a custom end-grain cutting board for my in-laws 45th anniversary. Next will be jewelry box for my wife. I am also planning on building cabinets for my kitchen remodel. Among other things I have floating around in my very warped mind.

I looked over the site and I must say I am quite impressed, there is a lot of experience floating around here.

However, I found something missing here. As knitted as we are as a woodworking community, I don’t see a part of the site where members that are close geographically can meet up or chat. I think it would be great for locals of an area be able to get together and brainstorm, design, share experience and build awesome projects.

Well, let me be the first to start something here if I may. I am located near Harrisburg, PA in a small suburb called Dillsburg. Anyone even remotely local?

Hope to hear from all. Thanks.

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