Building a storage shed

Archive for September, 2010

I built this stand using 2×6’s and a 2×10. The design is based on the bed of the “Low Cost Wooden Longbed” lathe by Carlyle Lynch found on page 72 of Lathes And Turning Techiques. Lynch’s wooden lathe is really cool, you should check it out. If you think it doesn’t look heavy enough, try lifting 3 12′ 2×6’s and a 12′ 2×10. It ain’t exactly light. But it would be an easy modification to add a long narrow box connected between the uprights, and fill the box with sand.

Materials List:(3) 12′ 2×6(1) 12′ 2×10(4) 10″ 1/2″ Carriage Bolts(4) 1/2″ Washers(4) 1/2″ Hex NutsWood Glue

I started with two 12 foot 2×6’s. I cut them into four 6 foot pieces using my Dewalt Compound Miter Saw. I then laminated them into a pair of 6 foot long 3 inch thick beams. I used Titebond II premium wood glue.I cut the 12 foot 2×10 into four pieces 32 1/2 inches long. I laminated them into a pair of 3 inch thick planks, which will become the uprights. I stacked weights on top of the beams and uprights to hold them tight together while the glue dried.I wanted to let them set for 24 hours, so meanwhile I cut another 12 foot 2×6 into four 32 inch long pieces. These will become the feet.

The next day, after the glue has dried. I ran my Dewalt DW680K heavy duty planer over the beams and the uprights to flush the edges. I trimmed the beams down to 65 inches long, but these could be left at 6 feet long if you want the length.From the top of the uprights, I cut rests for the beams on each side measuring 3 inches wide, and 5 1/4 inches deep. I cut these with my jig saw with a 4 1/4 inch long Bosch Progressor type blade. This was very very slow, and the cuts kind of slanted as they went into the wood. A band saw would have been a better choice, but I don’t own one. After the chunks were removed, I straightened the cuts with my Skil belt sander. I made a 2 inch long tenon at the bottom of each of the uprights by using my Porter & Cable 690LR router set to a depth of 3/4’s of an inch.After the tenons were cut, I laid these centered on the pieces I had previously cut for the feet. I outlined the tenons with a pencil. These will the mortises, which I routered with the router again set to 3/4’s of an inch. I made sure to route just a little wider and deeper then the pencil line. I glued the feet pieces into a pair of feet 32 inches long and laid weights on them while they dried.While the feet dried I bored two 1/2 inch holes through the top part of the upright, connecting the two beam rests. I drilled these in my drill press with a 1/2 inch spade bit. One at a time, I laid a beam on each rest, squared them, and with a pencil through 1/2 inch holes, marking the ends of the beams. I then drilled 1/2 inch holes through the ends of the beams.The next day after the feet have dried. Using my miter saw, I trimmed the ends of the feet so they were flush. I also cut a 45 degree corner on the top ends. On the bottom of the feet using my jig saw, I cut a 3/4 deep strip leaving a 7 inch wide ‘toe’ at the ends of each foot.I dry fitted the tenons of the uprights into the mortises. They were a little tight, so I thinned the tenons a touch with the belt sander so they fit firmly. I coated the tenons with glue, and fitted them into the mortises, making sure they were centered within the feet. I tapped the uprights down with a hammer, and let these pieces dry.When the uprights and feet were dry, and laid the beams across them, squared them, and bolted them together with 10 inch long 1/2 inch carriage bolts, washers and nuts.To make sure the the tops of the two beams were flat I used a square. One was slightly higher than the other, so with some passes with my power planer, they were made to be flat.I moved the stand into place. There was a slight wobble, so I placed a thin shim under one foot, and it was rock solid. I then setup my lathe on top of the stand, and bolted it onto the beams.

Posted by Rob in Whatever on September 26th, 2005 | No Comments

I think first we have to answer, why do we go to these shows? To save money, right?

Well, in the last 8 or 10 years the business model has changed. The Internet has become a MAJOR retail space. The Internet has changed the retail model for the brick and mortar stores also.

Today, most brick and mortar stores are matching (or durn close) the prices found on the Internet. If they aren’t, all you have to do is ask.

If you look at the show model, you have to rent exhibit space. You can probably rent an exhibit space 150 square feet for about twice the rent of a full store. Next you have to staff the booth and usually with people from out of town. There are transportation, living and meal costs. Five nights in a decent hotel cost probably as much as an apartment for a month. A cost saving for you and I just isn’t the model any longer. (Sorry, but that’s just the way that it is.)

I had a long talk with a vendor that would bring the kids to the show as a vacation. Before or after the show they would take in the local attractions. The vendor told me that the money isn’t there any more. The vendor said that if they broke even by selling at the show they were happy. The reason that they attend the show is to get their product into the hands of a few woodworkers. Then those woodworkers talk up the product and they sell more through the web. (The Internet rears its ugly head again.) They are a very small vendor and trying to build their business.

Another vendor that I have observed is Micro Jig. They used the show circuit to build their business. Now Rockler and Lee Valley carry their product. However it was the show circuit that built their business.

There are other vendors who have exhibited with little enthusiasm and as a result, their business is about to die. Their product is a good one, but how many people can stand there and watch another picture frame demonstration? It doesn’t matter how good the picture frames are, the demo is just boring. (It doesn’t matter much which vendor is doing a picture frame demo, the demo is boring.) When people walk, they don’t buy.

As a woodworker, you have to adjust your mentality about today’s woodworking shows. It’s time to get away from home maintenance, etc. It is time to enjoy woodworking demos and try to learn something. You may see something that you can’t live without. You may see something that you didn’t know existed.

Finally, I know of people that go to these shows with the same attitude that I have when I go to a NASCAR race weekend. It’s fun! Adopt that attitude and you’ll have fun. (Isn’t that what it is all about?)

Why should I purchase a Post Woodworking shed?

This is why!

• 2×6 Eng. Trusses Roof.
• 2×6 16″ on center floor.
• 2×4 16″ on center wall construction throughout.
• 2×6 pressure treated floor joists at no additional charge.
• 4 different material choices.
• 2 different roof styles.
• 3 different roof shingle color choices.
• Vinyl in 10 colors.
• Installation is included at no additional charge.
• Foundation materials included at no additional charge.
• End vents included at no additional charge.
• Aluminum single hung window (includes grills, screens, shutters and window box)
• Standard double door is 60″ wide.
• Standard single door is 29″ wide.
• Free Pressure Treated Ramp w/ each Building.

Do the windows come with screens?

Yes

What do I have to do to prepare the site?

All we ask is that you provide us with a cleared level within approx 12″ from corner to corner.

How do I tell if the area is level within 12″?

Stake out the area where you want to have your shed installed. Take a piece of string, hold it at one corner of the staked out area and run it to the next corner. Hang a line level on the string to make sure that it is level within 12″. A line level can be purchased at your local hardware store for $.50 to $1.00

Do I have to remove the grass?

No, we can install the shed on the grass. The grass will die because of lack of sunlight.

What do I need for the foundation?

Nothing, we provide concrete blocks and pressure treated 2×6′s for the foundation. We lay concrete blocks approximately every 4′ under the pressure treated 2×6′s.

Do I need a PERMIT?

We do not require one, but your town might. Check with your local code enforcement officer.

I would like to put my building on footings. How many do I need? How deep do they need to be placed into the ground? What size do you recommend?

We can mail or fax you a layout for the footings, each size shed is different. The depth is dependant on what your town requires. The height recommended is as close to ground level as possible in order to make all footings level for the shed to be placed on.

Do I have to pay my states sale tax?

Yes, we are required by states to charge sales tax because we are installing our product on your property.

However, after a few times of eating Antler X-Plosion (TM), the big bucks seem addicted and Shed it regularly.

The antler regeneration is complete, and the shedding cycle will resume once mating school in the fall concludes.
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The better you Shed Deer the faster you succeed.
The Better way to produce three Wider, and Multi-pointed Antlered Animals!
The mean mind is not on feed and he may drop 40 to 50 lbs in this 3 week period.

We may start your program with 20% Protein Antler X-Plosion (TM) but best results occur when 28% Deer Shed is used.
Do you still have questions that weren’t answered after reading most on Ask The Meatman.
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• The entire shedding process takes a mere two to three weeks to complete, and the phase takes place over the summer.
• The Buck will get his body in good shape first and grow second.
• But Protein alone will not trigger an Antler X-Plosion (TM) to be the consensus of general research.
• Antler X-Plosion (TM) Products so you this method.

Remember Antler X-Plosion (TM) is a supplement, a Feed.
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• To have your own special mix, you will to purchase 2 or more tons at a time or you can use our standard formula to get started.
• It takes good low stress levels, and perfect nutrition.

Mother Nature has a dry winter and spring then more Antler X-Plosion (TM) is needed.
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In some open troughs deer defecate into the trough as well, but not nearly much as on ground feeding.
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When using high content protein you must blend it into their diet slowly.

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The Bucks and Does needs will vary indirectly with Natures available protein supply.

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What are building permits?

Building permits are the documents that signify that a building surveyor has approved building work prior to its commencement. The Building Act 1993 and Building Regulations2006 legislate that most building work is subject to the issuing of a building permit. This includes most alterations, demolitions and removals.

Why are building permits issued?

Undertaking building work without obtaining the necessary building permit is a serious offence and can result in severe penalties.

The Building Act prescribes a penalty of $10,000 for any persons who carry out work without a permit.

However, compliance with the Act and Regulations should not be the key motivator for people when they are arranging a building permit.

The Act and Regulations provide benefits to consumers.They are a system of control on construction of building work. They establish, maintain and improve standards for the construction and maintenance of buildings, enhance the amenity of buildings and protect the safety and health of people using them.

Why obtain a building permit?

Building permits are designed to protect your building and, more importantly you. There are many other good reasons for having a building permit. The building permit ensures:

• The required building practitioners are registered and carry insurance
• Adequate documentation is prepared to construct your building
• Independent review of building documentation occurs
• Key stages of the work are independently inspected
• Your building is independently assessed as suitable for occupation.

Other benefits include the certainty of compliance with building legislation prior to building work commencing for owners and building insurers, which can ease the preparation of compliance reports, which may be required when selling your property.

Are there exemptions?

The building regulations recognise that some building work does not require a building permit. Examples of exemptions include pergolas associated with houses less than 20m2 in area; garden sheds with a floor area less than 10m2 and repair work done for maintenance purposes such as replacing rotted weatherboards. For more information regarding exemptions, you should consult your municipal or private building surveyor.

Hi Tom,

Why don’t you give us a watered down version of what you look for in a router?

Brent
Your wish is my command
here is the information without the photographs taken from my article It is a bit long winded and contains references to photographs which are not there. You might have to use your imagination

A router is basically, a high-speed motor fitted with a chuck for holding a cutting bit securely in position. The Housing surrounding the motor and cutter, support the router and the accessories that can be fitted to it.

Making the decision to buy:
Before purchasing a router speak to someone that can advise you on how the router functions, and how the various accessories that are available will increase your routers potential.

When selecting a router some users select the same brand of tools they have been using for years, because of the success they have had with such tools; Jigsaw / power saw / planer etc.

Reason for the router we have today; (1)
(1) A friend recommended the brand name and model.
(2) There was a Special on at the time.
(3) Observed an interesting article in a magazine, that looked easy to make, which required the use of a router.
(4) It was given as a present on retirement, on your Birthday, at Christmas or handed down from family or friend
(5) I was told the large router would be too heavy
(6) I always purchase the same brand of Tool. (This is not a good reason when buying a router)

(1) Taken from a number of survey conducted over a period of years.

Details provided are What I look for when I wish to purchase a new router. The information supplied may be of some guidance to those contemplating purchasing a router

Plunge Router;
The plunge router will enable the cutter to retract into the body of the router when it is not in use, therefore adding safety to your routing procedures. (Take care some routers may have to be unlocked before the cutter can retract into the safety of the router housing)
First preference would be to purchase a router with 1/2 chuck suitable to take 1/2 shank cutters. The 1/2 Router when used in the plunge mode with the aid of template guides and jigs has maximum support for the weight

Circular Base:
Select a router with a Circular Base. Circular based routers will provide greater support when routing the edge of the projects. The base of the router can also be used as a template guide. (Some router bases are not circular and have two flat sides with curved ends) The above router has one flat surface.

Template Guides. (1)
The router should have the ability of attaching Template Guides to the base of the router. . Some guides are screwed in position others are attached by means of a Bayonet fitting. Notch has been filed on the outer edge for easy insertion to the base.

40mm Template Guide:.(2)
It is important, the router should be capable of accepting a wide range of template guides. The 40mm Template Guide illustrated should be readily available for purchase.(3)

(1) Not all routers are designed to take template guides
(2) 40mm guide will accept a greater range of cutters that can be used
(3) Not all routers will take the 40mm guide.

Router Table
The router should be easily adjusted for height when fitted to the router table. If your choice of router is to be placed in the router table exclusively then it is strongly recommended that the Triton Router should be the considered for this purpose as it makes changing cutters easier and safer.(1).

The position of the on/off switch.
The switch should be located in a convenient position with easy access when holding the router with the handles/knobs.
Note; Some on/off switches also have a safety button incorporated in the switching on/off mechanism. Special arrangements must be made to hold the switch in the ON position when the router is being used in the Below Bench Position.

Router Base Opening:
The size of the opening on the base is important. Too small will restrict the size of the largest cutter that can be used. Too large will reduce the support to the router especially at the beginning and the end of the router cut. The opening should be large enough to fit a 40mm Template guide to the base. There should also be a clear view of the cutter during the process.

Position of the Locking Lever:
The locking lever should be easily accessible, without having to remove your hand from the handle to lock and unlock the router carriage. This locking action will hold the cutter at a selected depth with the aid of the Turret. (When the router is used in the plunge mode the locking lever is not required to be locked)
(1) Not all routers are suitable for use both in the bench position and in the plunge mode.

Three Way Turret:
The turret stop has been designed to rotate, to allow the operator to control the depth of each cut in stages. Routers with a six way turret are now available to allow the operator to rout each cut in a greater number of stages. If your router has a three way turret as illustrated it is strongly recommended that the two longer screws illustrated in the photograph are reduced in length to leave a difference in height of 3-6mm.

Variable Speed Routers:
Since the introduction of variable speed routers has added greater safety awareness enabling the reduction in speed when large cutters are used, or when other materials are required to be cut such as plastic or aluminium. These routers usually have a Soft start and a Braking system incorporated.

Dust Extraction:
Consideration may be given to what type of dust extraction system is incorporated in the router. Some routers have a system where the dust is extracted through one of the router columns and others are attached to the base with the aid of two screws. The shape of the base may be altered to accommodate the system through the column.

Note; I have still to find a router that has all the requirements that I need.

Tom

How to build a shed, and have it look like a professional built it, even if you can’t afford to build one with new lumber. Build a shed with pallets vs. do it yourself shed kits do you know which one will be cheaper to build? You’ll be surprised to discover the difference between these two methods.

Keep reading to unlock my secret to free quality lumber.

Build a shed with pallets:

When you think about a shed built with pallets you probable think about a rickety old looking shed but believe it or not, you can actually make a quality shed out of pallets. If you decide to us pallets to build your shed there are some things you need to keep in mind.

First, you will need to buy all the hardware like nails, screws and the brackets to hold the roof on which you will need to factor into your budget.

Second, you will need plywood to finish your shed and then paint to protect it and make it look good. I recommend buying quality paint, brushes and rollers because it will last longer and look better.

Third, you will need a quality set of plans to make building easy and fast. You could try to build it without plans but it might look like the rickety old shed we talked about earlier.

Do it yourself shed kits:

If you buy a do it yourself shed kit you will get a step-by-step guide, plans and with a good kit, detailed drawings. It is easy and fun to build a shed from a kit but again there are some things to think about.

First, not all do it yourself shed kits come with lumber to build your shed so you will need to buy it from a store. However, there is another was to get lumber for your shed and it’s free. I will get to that in a minute.

Second, if you buy a shed kit with the wood included it will probably be unfinished wood. You will then need to factor in the cost of paint or stain to finish and protect your shed.

In conclusion, it will be cheaper to build a shed with pallets because you can get the pallets free form most building stores. A set of good shed plans will be around $50, which is very cheap, and it will make building your shed ten times faster.

Now for my little secret to free lumber, go to all the welding fabrication shops in your area and ask them if you could have any pallets that come in. Now are you’re thinking how is that any different then asking the hardware stores for pallets?

Well, welding shops usually, get large material in that comes on large pallets. You will be able to get 4×4’s, 1×4’s and lots of other wood and it’s anywhere from 10-30 feet long.

Are you about to making these 3 classic mistakes that will double the cost to build a shed with pallets? I hate to admit it but I made all three of them myself! Find out what they are and how to avoid them by visiting www.ShedsMadeEasy.info Now.

How to build a shed, and have it look like a professional built it, even if you can’t afford to build one with new lumber. Build a shed with pallets vs. do it yourself shed kits do you know which one will be cheaper to build? You’ll be surprised to discover the difference between these two methods.

Keep reading to unlock my secret to free quality lumber.

Build a shed with pallets:

When you think about a shed built with pallets you probable think about a rickety old looking shed but believe it or not, you can actually make a quality shed out of pallets. If you decide to us pallets to build your shed there are some things you need to keep in mind.

First, you will need to buy all the hardware like nails, screws and the brackets to hold the roof on which you will need to factor into your budget.

Second, you will need plywood to finish your shed and then paint to protect it and make it look good. I recommend buying quality paint, brushes and rollers because it will last longer and look better.

Third, you will need a quality set of plans to make building easy and fast. You could try to build it without plans but it might look like the rickety old shed we talked about earlier.

Do it yourself shed kits:

If you buy a do it yourself shed kit you will get a step-by-step guide, plans and with a good kit, detailed drawings. It is easy and fun to build a shed from a kit but again there are some things to think about.

First, not all do it yourself shed kits come with lumber to build your shed so you will need to buy it from a store. However, there is another was to get lumber for your shed and it’s free. I will get to that in a minute.

Second, if you buy a shed kit with the wood included it will probably be unfinished wood. You will then need to factor in the cost of paint or stain to finish and protect your shed.

In conclusion, it will be cheaper to build a shed with pallets because you can get the pallets free form most building stores. A set of good shed plans will be around $50, which is very cheap, and it will make building your shed ten times faster.

Now for my little secret to free lumber, go to all the welding fabrication shops in your area and ask them if you could have any pallets that come in. Now are you’re thinking how is that any different then asking the hardware stores for pallets?

Well, welding shops usually, get large material in that comes on large pallets. You will be able to get 4×4′s, 1×4′s and lots of other wood and it’s anywhere from 10-30 feet long.

How Do I Build A Suitable Base For My New Garden Shed?

As with any structure, it is essential to provide a firm, level and square base; without which, your building will become unstable and will deteriorate rapidly. Preparations need not be too elaborate and we show the three recommended methods below.

• Concrete Base – The best method – provided it’s done well. Really only a job for a competent DIYer, or a professional builder.
• Rows Of Paving Slabs – Simple, yet effective. Also the best solution if the building may need to be moved in future years.
• Treated Timber Bearers – By far the easiest solution! You simply clear the site in accordance with our guidelines, and the fitters can build straight onto the earth.

Whichever method you use, it is important that the end result is above all, firm and square. If you are constructing the base for a building over 12′ x 8′, a garage, a sectional building, a corner unit, a gazebo, or a building with no floor, we recommend a purpose-built concrete base. Please ask the relevant company for a detailed base plan when they contact you to arrange a suitable delivery date.

Please keep in mind that these base preparations must be concluded before the arrival of our fitter, as they often work alone, and are not able or equipped to undertake groundwork. If laying a concrete base, please also keep in mind the length of time it will take for the concrete to cure. If the fitter arrives and there is not a suitable base, then the building will be left on a self-assembly basis at full invoice price, or a surcharge will be incurred if they have to return another day.

If you are in any doubt, or would like any advice, please telephone, email, or visit our on-line customer support area for further assistance.

How Do I Prepare For A Building With Bearers ?

PLANNING & PREPARATIONThis is the simplest option, however it’s not suited to all buildings. If you are constructing the base for a building over 12′ x 8′, a garage, a sectional building, a corner unit, a gazebo, or a building with no floor, we recommend a purpose-built concrete base.

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Spade
• Shovel
• Tape Measure & String

CONSTRUCTING THE BASECut back any infringing trees and bushes. Allow at least 12″ (300mm) all around and 36″-48″ above the roof of the building. the proposed base must be firm, level, square and designed to suit the floor size of the selected building as detailed above.

Carefully mark out the exact size of the required shed base, using pegs and string. Check this is square by measuring the diagonals – if the base is square, the diagonal measurements will be equal. Mark 6″ all around the outside of this area for the overall size of the ‘dig’. Remove the setting out strings, but leave the pegs in place for further use. Remove all vegetation and clear the topsoil to the depth required.

Carefully level and compact the ground using a large spirit level – there must be no bumps or imperfections in the level of the base. The ground must be solid and level for the bearers to go onto. Ieally have bricks or paving slabs for the bearers to sit onto. Titan and Malvern can supply bearers as an option, but Diamond and Parklands do not provide them and you will have to obtain your own bearers and lay them down before your new shed arrives. Check with our office the number of bearers required and where they should be placed.

USEFUL LINKS

• B&Q – DIY Superstore
• Graham Group – Builders Merchants
• Homebase – Home Improvements Store
• HSS – Major Chain Of Tool Hire Shops
• Jewsons – Timber & Builders Merchants
• Keyline – Builders Merchants
• Travis Perkins – Builders Merchants & Tool Hire
• BuildNet – Handy Hints, Tips & Guides. Also has a discussion forum in case you get stuck!

GUIDE INFORMATION

• This is a guide only. If you do not understand any of it, or are in any doubt, we recommend that you contact a local building contractor. Yellow Pages is an excellent resource for this.
• If you are in any doubt, or would like any advice, please telephone, email, or visit our on-line customer support area for further assistance.
• By using this guide, you are exempting Garden Sheds Online from 1st Choice, it’s employees and agents, from any liability which may result in any way.

How Do I Build A Slabbed Base ?

PLANNING & PREPARATIONAlthough a far easier (and cheaper) solution than a concrete base, it is still vital that a slab base is correctly constructed. Especially important is the fact that you need to set the rows of slabs at the correct spacings, and running in the correct direction (at right-angles to the runners on the underside of the floor, or the optional timber bearers, if specified.) These rows may be up to 2′ apart, however it is important that you have a row where two-piece floor sections abut each other (if appropriate).

The base must be firm, level, square and designed to suit the floor size of the selected building. When the appropriate company contact you to arrange a delivery date, ask them for a base plan, and make sure that you stick rigidly to this – failure to do so may mean that the building cannot be installed without alterations.

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Spade
• Shovel
• Hammer
• Tape Measure & String
• Large Spirit Level
• Trowel
• Rubber Mallet

LAYING THE SLABSCut back any infringing trees and bushes. Allow at least 12″ (300mm) all around and 36″-48″ above the roof of the building. carefully mark out the exact size of the required shed base, using pegs and string. check this is square by measuring the diagonals – if the base is square, the diagonal measurements will be equal. remove all turf & vegetation.

Carefully level and compact the ground, laying a sand/cement dry-mix across the area on which the slabs will sit. Compact this dry-mix and ensure that it is level from front to back, as well as side to side – this will save you a lot of time later.

Starting in one corner, bed the first slab into position, carefully levelling in all directions using a large spirit level. It is important that you use a large spirit level as this will give a more accurate reading. Take your time here – it is vital that the first slab is absolutely correct – if it’s not, then the whole base will be out of true.

If one of the slabs is too high, and needs realigning, simply lift it and remove a little sand at a time until you arrive at the correct level. Alternatively, gently tap the slab on the top edge of the offending corner with a rubber mallet (or lay a piece of timber on the corner and strike gently with a club hammer) If a slab is too low, lift it and put more dry-mix beneath it until it rises to the correct level.

Take your time here – it is vital that the first slab is absolutely correct – if it’s not, then the whole base will be out of true. When you are happy that the first slab is 100%, lay the second slab in the row tight up against it, following the same guidelines as you did with the first. Ensure that the second slab is 100% in-line with the first by laying the spirit level across the join. When slab number two is in position, continue along the row until you get to the outside edge of the base.

The next step is to add the remaining rows – in their correct positions. This is basically a re-run of the first row, but it is again vital to ensure that this, and each subsequent, row is perfectly in line with the original. Again this is achieved by laying a large spirit level across the gaps. The slabs must be perfectly level across the whole site in order to spread the load equally and to avoid any subsidence.

USEFUL LINKS

• B&Q – DIY Superstore
• Graham Group – Builders Merchants
• Homebase – Home Improvements Store
• HSS – Major Chain Of Tool Hire Shops
• Jewsons – Timber & Builders Merchants
• Keyline – Builders Merchants
• Travis Perkins – Builders Merchants & Tool Hire
• BuildNet – Handy Hints, Tips & Guides. Also has a discussion forum in case you get stuck!

GUIDE INFORMATION

• This is a guide only. If you do not understand any of it, or are in any doubt, we recommend that you contact a local building contractor. Yellow Pages is an excellent resource for this.
• If you are in any doubt, or would like any advice, please telephone, email, or visit our on-line customer support area for further assistance.
• By using this guide, you are exempting 1st Choice Leisure Buildings, it’s employees and agents, from any liability which may result in any way.

How Do I Build A Concrete Base ?

OUTLINEThe most important thing to do when building your new concrete base is to get it right – please remember that concrete is virtually impossible to fix if something goes wrong! If you’re not a competent DIYer we’d recommend you seek advice from a local builder. If you are happy to take on this job, take your time, plan the job and read on!

PLANNINGThe base must be firm, level, square and designed to suit the floor size of the selected building. Contact us to check the exact base size of your chosen model, as these will vary – it doesn’t necessarily follow that an 8′ x 6′ building will have a base size of 96″ x 72″ – generally it won’t.

When designing the base, it is vital that you take into account whether or not the building has a floor as this will influence the size and design of the base. If it does have a floor, you should add 1″ (25mm) to the above dimensions. If it does not have a floor, we will guide you accordingly – please do not use these instructions. We will be happy to provide a detailed base plan for your individual needs in this instance.

Concrete is a mixture of ‘all-in’ ballast, Portland cement and water. For this type of base, they are mixed to the ratio of:

• 1 Part Cement
• 5 Parts ‘All-In’ Ballast

BALLAST’All-in’ ballast (20mm) is usually sold in 40kg bags at your local builders merchant or DIY superstore. 1.25 bags are needed to produce approx. 1 cubic foot of concrete. Therefore, the formula to calculate the amount of ballast required is as follows:

Example:Shed Base = 8′ Long x 6′ Wide x 3″ deepVolume = 8′ x 6′ x 0.25′ = 12 cu ftAdd 1/3 for compacting = 4 cu ft’All-in’ ballast required = 16 cu ft16 x 1.25 = 20 bags of 20mm ‘all-in’ ballast

Quantities for other size bases may be worked out using these figures. The golden rule is to order on the generous size when buying materials. Excavations can seldom be measured accurately.

CEMENT

1 bag (50kg) of cement mixed with ‘all-in’ ballast in the ratio of 1:5 makes:24 sq. ft of concrete 3″ thickor 18 sq. ft of concrete 4″ thickfor 8′ x 6′ (48 sq. ft)3″ thick base cement = 2 bagsfor 8′ x 6′ (48 sq. ft)4″ thick base cement = 3 bags

Quantities for other size bases may be worked out using these figures.

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Spade
• Shovel
• Hammer
• Saw
• Tape Measure & String
• Spirit Level
• Tri-square
• Concrete Mixer (for larger jobs)
• Rammer (to compact concrete whilst laying)
• Tamping Beam
• Plastic or Wooden Float

PREPARATIONCut back any infringing trees and bushes. Allow at least 12″ (300mm) all around and 36″-48″ above the roof of the building. the base must be firm, level, square and designed to suit the floor size of the selected building as detailed above.

Carefully mark out the exact size of the required shed base, using pegs and string. Check this is square by measuring the diagonals – if the base is square, the diagonal measurements will be equal. Mark 6″ all around the outside of this area for the overall size of the ‘dig’. remove the setting out strings, but leave the pegs in place for further use. remove all vegetation and clear the topsoil to the depth required. carefully level and compact the ground.

For ordinary garden sheds, a thickness of 3″ (75mm) is sufficient in most situations. on soft clay, or on larger buildings, increase the thickness to 4″ (100mm) laid on 2″ (50mm) of finely broken and compacted hard-core if required. half the depth of the base (approx.) should be above ground level.

Replace the setting out strings onto the pegs and check the original measurements. Check the markings are still square by checking the diagonals. These strings are used for positioning the concrete form work. This is made from 2″ (50mm) thick timber and should be as wide as the depth of the concrete slab.

Use a tape measure, spirit-level and try-square to set out the form work accurately. This is nailed onto pegs driven into the ground. These pegs should be sited on the outside of the form work in each corner and every 2′ (600mm) It is very important that the pegs do not protrude above the top of the form work as this will make the levelling off of the concrete very difficult. Ensure the top of the form work is carefully checked and is level all around (use a long spirit level)

MIXING THE CONCRETETry to mix alongside the base site so that the concrete can be placed by shovel, otherwise use a wheelbarrow. Use a plastic bucket (3 gallon) for accurately measuring materials. Use another bucket for measuring water.

Mix well in the proportion:

• 1 bucket cement
• 5 buckets ‘all-in’ 20mm ballast

Add water gradually to the mix until the whole pile is uniform in colour and sufficiently workable to use. Do not make the mix too wet – this weakens the concrete. Note how much water has been used and use the same quantity for each mix. Hire a cement mixer for making large quantities of concrete.

LAYING THE CONCRETEPlace a layer of concrete into the form work. Compact this down with a rammer taking particular care to push the concrete into the corners and edges. Tap the sides of the form work with a hammer to help produce a solid edge to the slab. Continue placing layers of concrete into the form work and compacting until full.

Use the tamping beam with a chopping and sawing motion across the slab; working from one end to the other. This will level off the concrete, leaving it flush with the top of the form work. The concrete should be tamped flat as it is poured. After tamping the concrete should be smoothed out with either a wooden or a plastic float – this allows the batons of the floor to sit evenly.

Concrete must not be permitted to dry out too quickly or be damaged by frost whilst wet. Cover with plastic sheeting until the concrete is hard and spray with water for several days to allow it to dry out slowly.

When base is ready, remove the form work and tidy around the base, ready for delivery of your new building. Fill the 6″ (150mm) around the edge of your new base with pea shingle to prevent ‘splash-back’ as rain drips to floor.

USEFUL LINKS

• B&Q – DIY Superstore
• Graham Group – Builders Merchants
• Homebase – Home Improvements Store
• HSS – Major Chain Of Tool Hire Shops
• Jewsons – Timber & Builders Merchants
• Keyline – Builders Merchants
• Travis Perkins – Builders Merchants & Tool Hire
• Blue Circle Cement – Interesting Background On Cement From The Major UK Supplier
• BuildNet – Handy Hints, Tips & Guides. Also has a discussion forum in case you get stuck!

GUIDE INFORMATION

• This is a guide only. If you do not understand any of it, or are in any doubt, we recommend that you contact a local building contractor. Yellow Pages is an excellent resource for this.
• If you are in any doubt, or would like any advice, please telephone, email, or visit our on-line customer support area for further assistance.
• By using this guide, you are exempting 1st Choice Leisure Buildings, it’s employees and agents, from any liability which may result in any way.

Where You Might Get A Good Industrial Workbench For Your Garage

A garage workbench article on a specialized woodworking site is obviously focusing on the practical hands on needs of the homeowner. With a garage workbench, most of us mean a metal workbench for general use in your basement or garage. Therefore, these workbenches are usually made of steel with a hardwood or laminated hdo or mdo plywood benchtop. Depending on the supplier, a garage workbench can also hold drawers or cabinets underneath or additional shelves mounted to the back.

Light Garage Workbench

For the standard DIY user, a what we call light garage workbench will more than do its job. A good example is stacks and stacks garage workbench for under $ 100. This is a rigid bench.

Organize your garage once and for all with this sturdy workbench. With dimensions of 18″D x 42″W x 60″H it should fit nicely into any basement working space and give you the storage space for all your tools and accessories. This Garage workbench has a peg board on the back and a pullout tray. With two shelves underneath and a small tray above the work area, this galvanized steel workbench provides lots of storage space.

Heavy Duty Industrial Garage Workbenches

The need for real heavy duty industrial garage workbench quality should have you looking into more expensivebut also more durable types of benches. Like the Northern Industrial Tools 3-Drawer garage workbench made of a heavy duty steel frame and work surface. With its overall dimensions of 58 1/2in.x 60in.x 27 1/2in.(HxWxD) it provides you with enough storage space for your garage.

Whatever kind of garage workbenches you decide on for your workshop, make sure that it is durable and heavy enough to last a long work life. Also, test if it can easily be equipped with vises like a wilton vise and offers you enough space for your hand tools to be stored in any drawers. Finally, please remember that a solid garage workbench is an investment and the foundation of any good workshop.

Filed under Workbenches & Storage