Building a storage shed

You’d be hard-pressed to find a woodworker who hasn’t had some unexpected thing ruin his project (or at least something that forced him to do a ton of work to fix it). Prepare to meet ten of the most common pitfalls and ways to either fix them or avoid them in the first place.

Going too fast is the most common pitfall that woodworkers fall into. You get in a hurry and you want to finish a task as soon as possible. Don’t do it. Not only will you be much more likely to really mess up your project, but you could end up damaging something even more important — yourself. Hurrying is the number one cause of workshop injuries.

If you find yourself wanting to hurry things along, take a break and remind yourself that hurrying isn’t safe and that it could end up costing you more time in the long run if you have to fix a mistake or, worse yet, take a trip to the emergency room.

Sometimes you get blotchy finishes from using an oil finish, such as Danish oil, or a stain. The finish turns out blotchy because the pores in some woods, such as cherry, take in differing amounts of the oil and have an uneven appearance.

You can’t correct this after the damage has been done, so you need to make sure that you plan for it before you start finishing. You can avoid this problem two ways:

• Use a sanding sealer or other pore-filling product to fill the pores of the wood before you apply the final finish.

• Use a finish that sits on top of the wood rather than absorbing into it. Varnish and shellac are two examples.

Nothing is more heart-breaking than finishing your work on a cabinet and then trying to slide the drawer in, only to find out that the drawer’s too big to fit the opening. Don’t get stuck standing there baffled as to why this happened. After all, you followed the plans, right?

The problem is that you followed the plans. Here’s the situation: When you build the carcass of a cabinet, your measurements may be off by 1/32 inch here and there, for example. When you try to put the carcass together, very small discrepancies can add up to enough of a difference in overall size to make your drawer not fit right.

The solution is simple: Wait to make the drawers or doors until after your carcass in completely done. Then disregard the dimensions on the plan and work from the carcass itself. This ensures that your drawer or door dimensions match those of the carcass.

More often than not, when you’re done making a table, you’ll probably find that it wobbles. (Thought they may not admit it, most all woodworkers have had the same experience.)

To avoid this problem, make sure that you cut all the legs to the exact same length. Put them on a panel-cutting jig and run them all through the table saw at the same time. You also need to make sure that you get the table perfectly square when you glue it up. Assemble the table leg/rail system in two stages: First, glue the short rails to the legs and then, after they’ve had a chance to dry completely, glue these two assemblies to the long rails. Check for square in both directions — across the top of the assembly and from leg bottom to opposite leg top.

Try as you might to get everything perfectly square from the start, some problems may occur. To fix a wobbly table after glue-up, adjust the length of the legs until you get them even. To do this, put the table on a flat bench and rock it to see which leg is the longest. Next, move the table until this long leg is off the bench. Push the leg tight against the edge of the bench and level the table. If this is the long leg, it will extend slightly down from the tabletop. Using a utility knife, score the point where the top of the bench crosses the table leg. Use a sander or plane to shorten the leg to this mark.

The most common reasons that a stain doesn’t take are that you used a non-staining wood filler or you have some glue that you didn’t completely wipe off after assembling the piece.

Both problems are easy to prevent but not as easy to correct. So make sure you use a wood filler that can take stain, and be sure to wipe off all the glue that oozes out of a joint when you assemble it.

If you do end up with an unstained spot on your project, apply some colored glaze (semi-transparent solution similar to thinned-out paints or stains) to the unstained area, adjusting the color and coverage until you get a match to the stained wood. Let it dry and then topcoat it.

Some woods, such as birch, get fuzzy when you sand them too much. The fibers of the wood tear and create hairlike fuzz on the surface of the wood. You don’t want to stain or topcoat wood in that condition.

If your wood does get fuzzy, go down a grit or two with the sandpaper (120-grit is a good place to start) and sand out the little furs. The way to avoid fuzzy wood is to make sure you don’t sand with a paper finer than 150 grit. And don’t use a scraper either.

You’ve taken great care to get joints that are tight, but when you put the glue on and try to pull the joint together, it doesn’t go. Either you have joints that are too tight, or you pulled the joint together only partway and are experiencing “lock-up.”

To avoid overly tight joints, always dry fit first. If you have to pound (or even moderately tap) the joint together with a mallet, you need to loosen the joint before you add glue to it. If your joint is a mortise-and-tenon, shave down the tenon slightly until you’re able to pull the joint together by hand or with minimal tapping.

If the joint locks up on you when you’re assembling it, you need to do some serious mallet tapping and clamping to get it to move again. Depending on how long the joint’s been locked, you may not be able to get it to budge. Just avoid a locked joint in the first place, which is as simple as pulling the joint fully together when you first try to assemble it. Resist the temptation to partially attach the joint. Always attach a joint completely before moving to another one.

After all your effort in choosing, milling, and assembling board for a tabletop, you remove the clamps — only to find out that the tabletop isn’t flat. Assuming your wood wasn’t warped, cupped, or twisted, you have two possible reasons for your problem. Either the edges of the board weren’t perfectly straight and square, or you applied too much clamp pressure when gluing the boards together.

To avoid these problems, make sure that you use a jointer that is adjusted properly to make perfectly square edges on a board. Don’t apply so much pressure to the clamps that the board starts to deflect up from the clamps. A clamp or two positioned on top of the boards can help this too.

To flatten an uneven tabletop, you need to plane and sand it flat. You will lose thickness in the board, so you may not want to go this route. Your best option is to cut the top apart at the joints and start over again. Take a deep breath — it’s not as bad as it sounds, and it is far easier than trying to flatten with a plane and sander.

After the boards are separated again, joint them until they have square edges, dry clamp the edge joints and check for flat, then re-glue them using just enough pressure to bring the boards together.

Running a piece of wood through a saw sometimes causes tear-out, which is the result of the spinning blade grabbing the unsupported edge of the wood as the board leaves the saw. Tear-out occurs on the back edge of boards when you cut across the grain.

The way to avoid tear-out is to put a backing board against the back edge of the wood when you cut. The backing board acts as a sacrificial board for tear-out. Also, if you have a board that needs both rip cuts and crosscuts, do the crosscuts first and the rip cut second. Because the blade is unlikely to cause tear-out on a rip cut, you don’t have to worry about using a backing board.

Sometimes a joint fits too loosely. If you’re working with mortise-and-tenon joints, loose fit is a particular problem, because their strength depends on a tight fit between mortise and tenon.

So what do you do if the tenon is too loose in the mortise? Well, aside from cutting a new tenon, using a glue that fills gaps works a lot of the time. Regular carpenter’s wood glue won’t work. You need an epoxy resin glue — a two-part glue that often expands as it cures to fill gaps in the wood.

Your other option is to glue a thin piece of wood to the tenon to make it bigger and then trim the newly sized tenon to fit the mortise.

A symbol (asterisk) in a written stitch pattern indicating that whatever follows gets repeated.

A symbol (bullet) in a written stitch pattern indicating that whatever follows gets repeated.

A synthetic fiber used to make yarn that mimics the look and feel of natural materials.

1. The Afghan crochet stitch produces a rather solid fabric that closely resembles a knitted fabric. 2. An afghan (lowercase a) is a soft blanket or shawl, crocheted or knitted, often in a geometric design

Abbreviation for approximately.

To knit or crochet stitches at an angle on the back (or wrong) side of a fabric, producing a pattern in which the stitches overlap.

A type of crochet stitch in which you insert your hook around the post of a stitch that’s one or more rows below the current row, creating raised patterns that appear to recede on the side of the fabric facing you.

A stitch used to assemble knitted pieces by using a tapestry needle, going in and out of the stitches in knitted fabrics.

Yarn wound around a cardboard center or an open hole.

A knitted border on a piece of knitted fabric that keeps the center edge from stretching; adds a neat trim to an otherwise rough-looking edge; and creates a place for fastenings such as buttons. Most often appears on cardigan sweaters.

1. A type of knitting increase that leaves a horizontal bar under the increased stitch. 2. In filet crochet, a long space that crosses over the two blocks or spaces, or the one lacet, below it.

A knitting stitch pattern that creates a fabric that looks like a woven basket.

Knitting pattern abbreviation for beginning.

Crochet pattern abbreviation for between.

To make a finished edge by securing the knitted stitches in the last row worked, which prevents unraveling.

A crochet stitch used to assemble crocheted pieces, adding some stability to the backside of a seam made with long stitches, such as triple crochet.

1. (verb) To wet down or steam a piece of knitting or crochet in order to coax it into its final shape. The moisture and/or heat smoothes out uneven stitches and straightens out wavy, rolling edges. 2. (noun) The actual crocheted substance of a filet crochet design.

Wooden sock- or mitten-shaped template with biscuit-type holes cut out to aid air circulation when blocking a knitted or crocheted piece.

A flat surface made from a material that you can stick a pin into, often marked with a 1-inch grid to aid in blocking a knitted or crocheted piece.

Long, slightly flexible stainless steel wires in various lengths that you thread through the edges of your knitted pieces so that you can pin a knitted or crocheted piece into place for blocking without the edges becoming scalloped at the pin sites.

Crochet pattern abbreviation for back loop only.

A piece of shaped plastic used to keep colored yarns separate while knitting or crocheting with multiple colors and strands of yarn. You wrap one color of yarn per bobbin. Commonly used in Fair Isle and intarsia knitting.

A highly bumpy, textured yarn composed of loops.

A knitting stitch that has the same look and feel as seed stitch, but on a larger scale.

A thick, heavy fabric into which raised patterns have been woven.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 4 back, meaning a cable worked over 4 stitches from behind your work.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 4 front, meaning a cable worked over 4 stitches in front of your work.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 6 back, meaning a cable worked over 6 stitches from behind your work.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 6 front, meaning a cable worked over 6 stitches in front of your work.

A knit pattern in which you cross one group of stitches over another by knitting them out of order.

A short knitting needle that’s point at both ends, has a divot or curve toward the middle, and is used to hold stitches temporarily while you work on their neighbors.

When knitting or crocheting with different colors, the process of moving yarn not in use to the next position it will be used by working it into the stitches being made in another color, rather than fastening off and rejoining the yarn with each color change.

Create a series of loops on one needle as a knitted starting row. The opposite is to bind off or cast off.

Crocheting or knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for contrasting color.

A simple, common crocheting stitch used to make a crochet piece’s foundation and to start new rows.

A type of yarn material (usually made of rayon or cotton) with an attractive appearance and velvety texture.

Knitting pattern that makes the fabric form arrow-like shapes.

A crocheting or knitting technique that works the stitches in a continuous, spiral-like fashion without turning the piece; also called crocheting or knitting in the round.

A knitting needle designed especially for circular knitting, made up of one long double-pointed needle in a circular shape.

A set of crochet stitches that you work across an equal number of stitches and join together at the top, forming a triangle shape that resembles an upside-down shell stitch.

Color combination.

Knitting style in which you hold the yarn in your left hand and pick the stitches through each loop.

A soft, white natural fiber from plants, often made into yarn.

Worked like a single crochet stitch, but from left to right, rather than right to left.

A style of embroidery that’s worked with any type of yarn, rather than thread.

A kind of needlework in which loops of a yarn are interwoven by means of a single hooked needle, or crochet hook.

A specialized needle with a hook at one end used to create crochetwork.

To knit or crochet stitches at an angle, producing a pattern in which the stitches overlap; crosses can be in the back or front of a stitched fabric.

A type of needlework, usually done with thread, in which stitches are crossed in the form of an X on some surface.

A band or fold at the end of a sleeve.

Removing stitches from a crocheted or knitted row to create a piece with sophisticated shaping; abbreviated dec.

One of the most common crochet stitches, it’s about twice as tall as a single crochet; abbreviated dc. Compare with single crochet.

Decreasing 2 stitches at the same time; abbreviated dbl dec.

Increasing 2 stitch in the same place; abbreviated dbl inc.

A long space in filet crochet that crosses over the two blocks or spaces, or the one lacet, below it.

A tall crochet stitch that creates a loose and holey fabric.

Knitting needle that has a point at each end.

How a knitted or crocheted fabric falls, including how much movement the fabric allows.

Adding loops to your crochet hook by crocheting a row onto a foundation chain.

A knit stitch or purl stitch that has fallen off the knitting needle, leaving that stitch unworked.

A simple way of adding an additional color to your knitting without actually knitting with that color; instead, you embroider the additional color on the fabric, mimicking the stitch it covers.

The batch of dye with which a certain yarn was colored.

The quality or condition of being elastic, meaning springy, flexible, and resilient.

To decorate a fabric with a design in needlework, usually by using embroidery floss.

A style of knitting in which the knitter holds the yarn in his or her right hand and wraps it around the right-hand (RH) needle as he or she creates stitches.

1. A small hole through which you pass something, such as a button. 2. A type of lace pattern characterized by small openwork motifs distributed over a solid fabric.

A liquid medium that you apply to a worked piece during blocking, which dries invisible and makes your fabric rigid.

A kind of knitted lace pattern composed of nothing but the simplest lace-making unit — a yarn over followed (or preceded) by a decrease.

Knitting technique, also called stranding, that involves color patterns using more than one color in a row. You can work with two strands of yarn, carrying them along the back of your work, and picking up and dropping them as needed.

A filet crochet stitch that looks somewhat like a V and is worked across five stitches or the width of two spaces.

To cut the yarn in a crocheted piece and then draw it through a loop on the crochet hook at the end of the design or the end of that particular yarn’s use in the design.

To transform knitting or crochetwork into a dense, sturdy fabric by running the finished piece through the washing machine.

A crochet technique that imitates a 17th-century form of lace worked on mesh netting stretched across a frame, which has evolved into a series of blocks and spaces that form a design.

Wool from a sheep or similar animal.

The strand on the wrong side of loose stitches that connects those stitches.

A soft, loosely twisted thread or yarn used in embroidery.

A crochet stitch pattern abbreviation for front loop only.

A crochet or knitting stitch pattern abbreviation meaning follows or following.

A series of chain stitches that creates your first row of crochet.

A border or trimming of cords or threads, hanging loose or tied in bunches.

To knit or crochet stitches at an angle on the front (or right) side of a fabric, producing a pattern in which the stitches overlap.

A type of crochet stitch in which you insert your hook around the post of a stitch that’s one or more rows below the current row, creating raised patterns on the surface of the fabric facing you.

A knitting stitch that you create by simply knitting (or purling) every row.

The number of knitted or crocheted stitches and rows there are to an inch of fabric.

A way to join two knitted pieces that mock knits by using a tapestry needle, creating a very stretchy and almost invisible join.

A crochet stitch in between a single crochet and a double crochet in height, which you work by drawing the yarn through three loops on the crochet hook.

A knitting stitch that creates a fabric that looks and feels like a woven fabric.

A technique used to make combination stitches, such as the puff or cluster. The stitch is worked only partway, and then finished at the end of the combination.

A large circle of yarn twisted into a figure-8 shape.

A type of yarn that has been blended from a number of different-colored or -dyed fleeces, and then spun; muted in color.

A border on a garment or piece of cloth, usually made by folding the edge and sewing it down.

A technique used to knit a cord that curls in on itself.

To add stitches to a row so that the row has more stitches than the previous row.

A knitting technique that works with different colors without using floats; instead, each color area has its own strand of yarn, and you intertwine the yarns when it’s time to work in another color.

To connect separate pieces of knitting or crochet by using one of a variety of techniques.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knit 2 stitches together.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knit in stitch below

An explanation of symbols used in a stitch chart.

1. (verb) To make cloth by interconnecting loops of yarn or thread in rows of stitches by using a pair of special needles. 2. (noun) A particular stitch in knitting that goes into the stitch from front to back.

A crochet stitch that looks like rows of Vs nesting in the row below, much like a knitting knit stitch.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knit stitch through the back of the loop.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knitwise (as if to knit).

A fabric knitted or crocheted in ornamental designs with various-sized holes.

A fancy crochet stitch that looks somewhat like a V and is worked across five stitches or the width of two spaces.

Left-hand needle; the knitting needle that you hold in your left hand.

A slick, smooth strand of floss or yarn that you thread with a tapestry needle through the last row of stitches below a mistake you’ve made in knitted lace, which allows you to put stitches back on your needle if you rip out too many when correcting the mistake.

A yarn, cloth, or thread made of flax, a plant fiber.

Description of a stitch that’s still on the knitting needle.

A single crochet stitch that you work into either the tops of stitches or spaces between stitches one or more rows below the current row, creating a vertical spike of yarn that extends over several rows of stitches.

1. The section of yarn wrapped around your crochet hook or knitting needle with which you work to form new stitches. 2. Three or more crochet chain stitches worked in a row.

A knitting increase in which you create a new, separate stitch between 2 stitches that are already on the needle.

A type of plied yarn in which the plies are different colors.

A type of knitting stitch that creates a practically invisible and nicely flexible seam for joining pieces side by side.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for main color, used in multicolored patterns.

A fuzzy yarn made from the long, silky hair of the Angora goat, often mixed with other fibers.

A knitting pattern of repeating geometric shapes.

A knitting stitch that’s an elongated version of seed stitch, in which you work 2 rows of the same sequence of knits and purls, then alternate them.

A crocheting or knitting design with a repeating figure or shape.

A knitting needle; an eyeless, usually long, needle of metal or plastic that has a blunt point at one or both ends, used in pairs when knitting by hand.

A synthetic fiber with great strength and elasticity.

A lace pattern that has more openings than solid spaces in its composition.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for purl 2 stitches together.

The sequence of crochet or knit stitches that, when repeated, create a certain fabric; either written out with abbreviations or presented in a chart. Abbreviated as pat.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for purl in the stitch below.

1. To use knitting needles and yarn to pull up new loops along a knitted edge and knit a border on that edge. 2. To fix a dropped stitch.

A little round-shaped crochet stitch that add a decorative touch to an edging or fill an empty space in a mesh design.

1 (noun) A small, thin piece of rustproof metal, often T-shaped. 2. (verb) To secure a knitted or crocheted fabric to the blocking board by using rustproof, non-plastic pins.

A finished slit on a garment that has a fastener, such as on the collar of a shirt, to make it easy to put on and take off.

The number of smaller strands twisted together to form the larger single strand of yarn.

A type of synthetic compound, such as nylon.

A fabric made from synthetic material also used in making plastics.

An ornamental ball or tuft of yarn often attached to garments and curtains.

A crochet stitch that forms a rounded, compact oval that stands out from the fabric.

A crochet stitch made by inserting your hook around the post of a stitch that’s one or more rows below the current row; can be worked in the front or back of the post.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for pass slipped stitch over; used for decreasing.

A crochet stitch that gently puffs up into an oval shape.

A knitting stitch that you create by working a knit stitch backwards, going into the stitch from back to front.

A crochet stitch that looks like rows of rounded bumps, much like a knitting purl stitch.

A synthetically produced textile fiber produced by pressing a cellulose solution through small holes and solidifying it into filaments.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for remains or remaining.

A given stitch sequence or combination. Stitch patterns are based on stitch repeats and row repeats. A given stitch sequence repeats horizontally across a row. A series of rows of given stitch sequences repeats vertically. Together they make up a stitch pattern that makes the fabric smooth, bumpy, cabled, or striped.

Right-hand needle; the knitting needle that you hold in your right hand.

A crochet or knit stitch pattern that creates textured vertical stripes.

To undo knitted stitches by removing the loops from the needle and pulling the yarn to unravel the stitches.

A knitting stitch pattern in whcih purl stitches make wavy lines.

A single line of stitches crocheted or knitted in the round; abbreviated rnd.

A single line of stitches crocheted or knitted in a flat pattern.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for right side, meaning the side that will be displayed when used/worn.

The horizontal strand of yarn that connects the first stitch on each needle when working a make 1 increase.

A small outline drawing of each piece of a knitted or crocheted project pattern.

1. (verb) Joining two pieces of material with a line of stitches. 2. (noun) The line along which two pieces of material are joined.

A knitting stitch that has a regular texture of little bumps that look a bit like seeds.

An extra stitch at the edge of your knitted fabric that (in combination with others) serves to create an even, stable border. Also spelled selvage.

To join or fasten with stitches using a sewing needle and thread.

The portion of a crochet hook that holds the loops you’re working with; its diameter largely determines the size of the stitches.

A projection, such as a ring, on the back of a button by which you sew it onto a fabric.

A crochet stitch that involves working from 3 to 5 double crochet stitches all in the same stitch; the pattern looks like a seashell.

A yarn material made from the soft, shiny fiber produced by silkworms from their cocoons.

A long crocheted strip of very short vertical single crochet rows.

A compact, fundamental crochet stitch that creates a tight, dense fabric. Compare with double crochet.

The most common form of yarn packaging; an oblong, machine-wound bundle of yarn.

To move a stitch from one knitting needle to the other without working that stitch.

The first stitch you form on your knitting needle or crochet hook to begin a project.

A flat or small knitting or crochet stitch that you use mostly as a utility stitch or a technique for activities like making a seam or joining a new ball of yarn.

The opening in a piece of crochetwork created by working 1 or more chain stitches in between other stitches.

A process to block your crochetwork or knitting by spraying the fabric with water to dampen it, then laying the fabric in the intended shape.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for slip, slip, knit the slip stitches together, which creates a left-slanting decrease.

A tasteless, odorless substance used to stiffen and shape fabrics.

Using a steam iron to block the shape of a knitted or crocheted piece.

A shortcut used to open up a knitted tube in which you sew or crochet two vertical lines of stitches an inch or so apart, then cut the stitches that fall between those lines.

A small ring that you add to your knitting or crochet work to remind you where you need to make a change to your needlework, such as the beginning of a round or the spot to work an increase.

A single loop of yarn worked off a needle in knitting or crocheting.

A knitting stitch which you create by alternating a knit row with a purl row.

To crochet, generally with yarn, onto a crocheted background; resembles embroidery.

1. (verb) To make a sample of knitted fabric for various reasons, including measuring gauge and practice. 2. (noun) The knitted fabric sample created by swatching.

A tool that looks like a wooden umbrella, which is specially designed to help untwist a hank of yarn.

The loose bit of yarn left after you finish knitting or crocheting your pattern.

A large-eye needle with a blunt point that you use to sew knitted pieces together.

An ornamental tuft of threads of equal length, hanging loosely from a knob or from the knot by which they’re tied together.

1. (noun) A light, fine, string-like length of material made up of two or more spun fibers. 2. (verb) To put a thread through the eye of a sewing or tapestry needle, or to work that threaded needle through a fabric.

The part of a crochet hook that does the actual hooking of the yarn and pulls that yarn through a stitch.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for together.

A type of closure that has a ring on one end and bar on the other; the bar slides through the ring vertically and then lays on the ring horizontally to keep it from coming back through.

A crochet stitch which is slightly longer than the double crochet and which creates longer openings between the stitches, producing a very loose fabric.

A crochet stitch that involves creating a length equivalent to 5 chain stitches by using a yarn over 4 times.

Reversing your crochet work so that you can start a new row of stitches.

The 1 or more chain stitches that you crochet after you’ve turned your work and are about to begin your next row so that your yarn is at the height necessary to work the first stitch of the next row or round.

A wool yarn with a background color flecked with bits of fiber in different colors.

A smaller version of a knit cable that consists of 2 stitches, 1 crossing over its neighbor.

Dyed in several different colors or shades, such as yarn.

A synthetic material often used to make rayon and other synthetic yarns.

A crochet stitch made up of a double crochet, chain, and double crochet stitch all in the same stitch, forming a V shape.

To work the remaining bit of yarn into already-created stitches to hide the tail.

The thickness of a yarn.

An ancient name for a knitted horizontal stripe.

Getting a piece of knitting or crochetwork completely wet in a sink or basin of water before laying it out to shape it.

A stitch used to join crocheted rows of short stitches, such as single crochet, worked with a tapestry or sewing needle and yarn or thread.

A machine with a crank that turns a spindle, which can wind and unwind a skein of yarn attached to the winder.

Yarn spun from the fibers of sheep, goat, llama, or other animal hair.

An adjustable wooden frame with arms that you can dress with your wet, knitted or crocheted garment to block that garment.

Crochet a designated stitch or stitches across the whole length of a row.

A smooth, firmly twisted thread or yarn made from long-staple wool combed to make the fibers lie in the same direction.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for wrong side, meaning the side that will be hidden when used/worn.

Any fiber, such as wool or nylon, spun into strands for knitting or crocheting.

The hand that’s feeding the yarn from the ball or skein. In crochet, the hand not holding the hook.

1. A knitting method of making an extra stitch on your needle and creating a deliberate little hole in your fabric, as in lace. 2. The most basic step to every crochet stitch, in which you wrap the yarn over your crochet hook

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