Building a storage shed

absolutebasics:
Floor plans and shop layout

Lighting…Iuse almost all Halogen in my shop. It has two bulbsin each light fixture and it works well for all thelighting needs I have. It is very bright and leavesvery little shadow effects due to their being two lightsin each fixture. I have several fixtures that are targetedat different areas, bench, table saw lathe, etc.
- Bill

Lighting…Iprefer fluorescent with a few low wattage incandescentto kill the flickering phenomena, headaches for someand nervousness for others and nothing for all the rest.I have found that halogen if not applied properly willcause hot spots and shadows. It seems to have a glarethat my eyes are sensitive to.
- dicklaxt

Paintingthe walls…There is a product called seal-cretethat does a great job of sealing concrete, block orwood for that matter. I used it as a primer on my barnshop. Anyhow it works very well as a first coat , youcan even mix some latex in and use it as a primer. Paintalways stick to it very well and it adds a moisturebarrier just in case. Found in most store HD, Lowesetc.
- rogerfitz

Paintingthe walls…The brand that I would recommend andthat is carried by most home centers (i.e. Home Depot,Lowe’s, etc.) is UGL Drylok (United Gilsonite Laboratories).This is the same company that makes Zar finishing products.It is technically a water sealer and not a paint, althoughit applies like a paint and the finished surface lookslike paint. UGL expands on curing and actually fillsthe small voids in the block to create a continuousbarrier to water. There are two versions: an oil basedproduct will stop even water under pressure and a latexversion that is low odor and easier to clean up. Theoil based product is fully tintable and the latex productcomes in white, gray, blue and beige.
Gloss finish makes a huge difference, Rich. I paintedevery surface (floors, walls, and ceiling) of my shopwith an gloss white epoxy floor paint. Reflects lightlike crazy and the hard smooth surface does shed finedust a little easier.
- Chris Moore

Iam one of these woodworkers who can never find anything5 minutes after I have laid it down or I am piling itemson my work surface-I have decided a portable work bench( on wheels) works great-you can place your tools orcut material on that and have it out of your way orin a place where you can find it easier-this enablesyou to move the surface to wherever you are working-itcan also be used for an extension table for your tablesawor your mitre saw. It has many uses and can be madeto fit your needs.
- Durad4ayn

Fastwalls for your shop… Whenwe moved into our house, I didn’t have time to reallyset up a practical shop. There were too many other “home”projects to complete. So I bought a roll of heavy (3-mil?)plastic, secured a corner of the basement, and proceededto hanging the plastic around my “shop” from the floorjoists in the basement ceiling. I created a “strip”door entrance to the area. We’ve been there four yearsnow, and I still have the plastic up. It functions perfectlywell – keeps the dust contained.
- Richard

Questionsto ask when setting up your shop:
Where would you put the big tools? I think there isa lot of utility in being able to walk up to your sawespecially and use it without having to clean it off,plug it in, or position it. That tends to locate thesaw centrally in the shop. Look at the working footprintof the machine when you are ripping and crosscuttinga 4×8 sheet of plywood. If you overlay this onto yourdrawing you’ll probably find there are only a couplelocations for it in its operating position.
Where would you put a dust collector? The location ofthe DC is driven by where the saw and other tools are.Place them and the DC will sort of take care of itself.You might consider an enclosure for it to keep the noisedown.
Where would a bench go? The bench is like the saw, youwant to step up to it and use it without having to dosomething else first. The placement will depend a loton if you need / want to use it as a support table forthe saw and/or if you want to work or walk around allfour sides or not. Place the saw and bench first.
What kinds of storage would you recommend for the varioussundry things I’ll need? Wall cabinets hung up witha French cleat system. This will allow you to move allyour storage around because it isn’t permanently fixedto the wall. The cleat system also makes it easy tohang jigs and other assorted shop items on the wallas well.
Would you paint the floor? What with? If it were meI would paint the floor, you can get epoxy paint forthis, concrete stain might work too. I would also suggestpainting the walls and ceilings white. Do all this paintingstuff now before you do anything else because it issuper-easy to do now and it will brighten things upquite a bit.
Anything else? Yes, after you have painted everything,put LOTS of lights in, you almost can’t have too muchlight. As a guide, I have eight 4′ twin tube fluorescentand seven 100w halogen bulbs in my shop which is about25% bigger than your space.
Put everything on wheels. This will allow you to reconfigurethe layout later and create space when you need to.
- Phil B

Measure you present tools and get the dimensionson what you are going to buy, make yourself some cutoutsto scale and then just play with them. You can makeall sorts of different arrangements in just a few minutes.Once you have decided on your layout you next have tothink about power distribution and lighting and futureequipment
It takes a lot of thought, try to get what you wantthe first time its much easier that way than to haveto tear something out because you forgot something orhad a better idea.
- dicklaxt

Areyou planning to work with full sheets of ply for example?Then you want an easy entry to the shop. You want enoughroom in front of and behind the TS to handle the sheets.If you are going to do a lot of work with solid wood,then you want the jointer and TS to have a good relationship.I go back and forth between those two constantly. Iwant them next to each other so I don’t waste movementand energy.
- Lou Williams

Thinkof where you will want to build a lumber rack. And don’tsell yourself short on space for this.
I purchased a dozen heavy duty 24″ brackets from LeeValley Tools (www.leevalley.com), rated at 600 lb. loadcapacity per bracket. I made the entire back wall ofthe shop into a lumber rack, and filled it with my covetedclear yellow cedar, along with some ruff pine and otherstuff. It didn’t take long before I had a load of Hemlockstickered on the floor, then another pile of 2X8 yellowcedar next to it, then came 150 BF of maple, and beforetoo long, I was right back to where I started.
It seems like every time I go to the local ‘wood store’,mill or the big city, I go through their supply andbring home a few more pieces of good lookin’ wood, forfuture (yet to be thought of) projects. If your likemost of us, you’ll never have too much wood on hand.(Drives the wives crazy…”You bought more wood???”)On the other hand, if your a buy-it-as-you-need-it kindof woodworker, a smaller rack will do. In either case,think about building a rack.
- Jules

Thebest way to layout your shop is to make a scaled drawingof the space and cut out paper scaled shapes of thetools you want to use. For a table saw, include thespace around it you need to use it. They just like paperdolls move them around until you like the way it is.You also might want to pre-plan before you put in thefloor and run power and dust systems to the locationfor the tools under the floor.
- Lou Williams

Whenstarting my new shop, I started out with the two partNYWS video of Norm building a garage workshop. Whilefine tuning the plans for height, depth and cabinetlayout, I saw issue #54 Shopnotes with the rolling toolcart. Suddenly it hit me. I could have a truly individualizedset of very versatile workspaces if I replaced all thecabinets with rolling carts. The workbench would becomea series of stalls that the carts park in when not inuse. So far I am very pleased with the results. I havecompleted the rolling tool cart, and the second cartis a rolling router cabinet. Four more carts are inthe works. The next cart will be a tool chest with lotsof drawers, similar to the mechanics tool chests. Afterthat, a cart for the portable plainer, the scroll sawand a yet to be determined cart are planned. All thecarts will be the same height, and surfaced with hardboard.This allows me to configure one or more smaller workbenchesthroughout the garage as needed by whatever projectI am working on. For casters, I use four swivel lockingcastors from HD for each cabinet. They are easy to move,and with all four castors locked, the cabinet simplydoes not budge. I hope this will give you some ideas
- Bill Endress

Generaltip. Make all your roll around cabinets the same heightas you table saw outfeed. This way you can cut stock,slide it onto a table and roll it to another workstation(which, ideally, is also at the table saw outfeed height).This minimizes lifting and allows you to swap out tablesinterchangeably. Beyond that is basic face frame kitchencabinet with wheels instead of toe kick. Not particularlydifficult. Put in drawers, shelves, whatever you need.Size to your tools.
- MadMark

Youshould get a dehumidifier for the shop whether you arein the basement or your garage. Yeah it adds to theelectric bill but so does everything else in the house.It’ll really reduce the amount of rust forming on anyof your tools and reduces the chances of molds and mildewsgrowing and thriving and eventually giving you a nastysinus infection. I turn mine on in April and don’t turnit off until late November/early December. I live inNE PA and that is the humidity season.
karl in pa

Starton the web and look at some shop plans and hints forstarting a shop.
- Robert Walker

woodworking.com recommends:
Cad Files for Woodworkers
Workshop Hints/Workshop Layout
Workflow Planning
Saws ‘n Dust
Idea Shop I (for 14′ x 28′ space)
Idea Shop 2 (for 24 x 24′ space)
Idea Shop 3 (for 12′ x 16′ space)
Idea Shop 2000 (for 12′ x 20′ space)

Ifyour area is small (as is mine), you will have to consider”working” space. The space you will need to do actualmilling operations. I solved my problem by mountingall my larger pieces of equipment on rolling bases.Since I work out of my double car garage (running outmy wife’s car on the weekends), I simply roll the saw,router, planer or what have you, to my garage door andmake saw dust. It’s much easier to clean up afterward.
- Jerry

Also,set up the shop power on its own electrical sub-panel.You will also want to look at some of the differentideas in setting up your shop (see Norm’s ideas at “www.newyankee.com),sketch out your available space and draw in the allof the equipment you “want” to put in the shop. Afterdeveloping the sketch of space and equipment, you canalso see if you have room for all you desire or youmay have to settle for less or buy equipment that performsmultiple tasks.
- Ralph in San Diego

Ihave two “benches” in an L configuration in my shop. Oneis a 8′ x 3′ folding table and the other is a 2′ dooron some sawhorses. Depending on the type of work you doan expensive bench may be overkill. I use a routing padto hold work in place for sanding and it works well forall but the smallest pieces. I don’t do carving or handplaning so there is little need for a vice or bench dogs.A soft top on your bench is (IMHO) better than a hardone. You want the bench to ‘give’ instead of dinging yourprojects! I’m not going to make a bench out of somethingI’m going to worry about. A benchtop is a *work* surface.Mine has glue spots, nicks, drill holes, stains, etc.all over it. Doesn’t bother me a bit and doesn’t impactit’s usefulness either. Some folks like a nice “formal”bench. They want the top to be beautiful. However if youcan *SEE* the top of your bench then you’re not doingmuch work! I run a continuous stream of projects thruthe shop (typically several at different stages) and mostdays you can’t see enough of the top to tell what colorit is much less admire the finish. And I *DO* clean!
- MadMark

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