Building a storage shed

Solid wood — that is, wood cut into boards from the trunk of the tree — makes up most of the wood in a piece of furniture. The type of wood you choose determines the beauty and strength of the piece. Many varieties of wood are available and each has its own properties. The following sections introduce you to the most common types of soft- and hardwoods.

Softwoods aren’t weaker than hardwoods. Softwoods come from coniferous trees such as cedar, fir, and pine and tend to be somewhat yellow or reddish in appearance. Because most coniferous trees grow fast and straight, softwoods are generally less expensive than hardwoods.

It’s also relatively easy to find sustainably grown softwoods (woods grown on tree farms to ensure a endless supply of wood); this means you’re not contributing to the deforestation of the world and will always have a supply of wood for your projects.

Following is a list of common softwood varieties and their characteristics.

Cedar

The most common type of cedar is the western red variety. Western red cedar, as its name implies, has a reddish color to it. This type of wood is relatively soft (1 on a scale of 1 to 4), has a straight grain, and has a slightly aromatic smell. Western Red cedar is mostly used for outdoor projects such as furniture, decks, and building exteriors because it can handle moist environments without rotting. Western red cedar is moderately priced and can be found at most home centers.

Fir

Often referred to as Douglas Fir, this wood is very soft, has a straight, pronounced grain, and has a reddish brown tint to it. Fir is most often used for building; however, it’s inexpensive and can be used for some furniture-making as well. It doesn’t have the most interesting grain pattern and doesn’t take stain very well, so it’s best to use it only when you intend to paint the finished product. Douglas fir is pretty hard, rating 4 on a scale of 1 to 4.

This wood is worth mentioning because it is very common at your local home center and it’s so inexpensive you’ll probably be tempted to make something with it.

Pine

Pine comes in several varieties, including Ponderosa, Sugar, White, and Yellow, and all of them make great furniture. In some areas of the country (especially southwest United States), pine is the wood to use. Pine is very easy to work with and, because most varieties are relatively soft, it lends itself to carving.

Pine generally takes stain very well (as long as you seal the wood first), although Ponderosa pine tends to ooze sap, so be careful when using this stuff. Pine is available from most home centers, but it’s often of a lesser grade than what you can find at a decent lumberyard.

Redwood

Like cedar, redwood is used mostly for outdoor projects because of its resistance to moisture. Redwood (California redwood) is fairly soft and has a straight grain. As its name suggests, it has a reddish tint to it. Redwood is easy to work with, is relatively soft (2 on a scale of 1 to 4), and is moderately priced. You can find redwood at your local home center.

Most woodworkers love to work with hardwoods. The variety of colors, textures, and grain patterns makes for some beautiful and interesting-looking furniture. The downside to hardwoods is their price. Some of the more exotic species can be too expensive to use for anything more than an accent.

Some hardwoods are becoming very hard to find and are being harvested without concern to their eventual extinction (Brazilian rosewood comes to mind). Not only is this hard on the environment, it drives the price of the wood so high that making furniture out of it is out of the question for most woodworkers. If you can, try to buy wood from a sustainable forest (commercial tree farms that ensure the supply of the wood). Check out the National Hardwood Lumber Association or SmartWood.com for ways to support sustainable forestry.

Following is a list of common hardwoods and their characteristics.

Ash

Ash is a white-to-pale-brown colored wood with a straight grain. It’s pretty easy to work with (hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and takes stain quite nicely, but ash is getting harder and harder to find. You won’t find ash at your local home center — it’s only available from larger lumberyards. Ash is a good substitute for white oak.

Birch

Birch comes in two varieties: yellow and white. Yellow birch is a pale yellow-to-white wood with reddish-brown heartwood, whereas white birch has a whiter color that resembles maple. Both types of birch have a hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5. Birch is readily available and less expensive than many other hardwoods. You can find birch at many home centers, although the selection is better at a lumberyard.

Birch is stable and easy to work with. However, it’s hard to stain because it can get blotchy, so you might prefer to paint anything that you make with birch.

Cherry

Cherry is a very popular and all-around great wood; easy to work with, stains and finishes well with just oil, and ages beautifully. Cherry’s heartwood has a reddish-brown color to it and the sapwood is almost white. Cherry has a hardness of 2 on a scale of 1 to 5. This is a very common wood for furniture-making and is available from sustainably-grown forests. You won’t find cherry at your local home center, so a trip to the lumberyard is necessary if you want to use it. Because it’s in demand, cherry is getting somewhat expensive compared to other domestic hardwoods, such as oak and maple.

Mahogany

One of the great furniture woods, mahogany (also called Honduran mahogany) has a reddish-brown-to-deep-red tint, a straight grain, medium texture, and a hardness of around 2 on a scale of 1 to 5. It takes stain very well and looks great with just a coat (or 10) of oil.

The only drawback is that mahogany isn’t being grown in sustainable forests (not a big deal unless you want to ensure that it’ll be around forever). Forget going to your home center to get some — the only place to find mahogany is a decent lumberyard (and it’ll cost you).

Maple

Maple comes in two varieties: hard and soft. Both varieties are harder than many other woods; hard maple is so hard (a 5 on a scale of 1 to 5) that it’s difficult to work with. Soft maple, on the other hand, is relatively easy to work with. Because of their fine, straight grain, both varieties are more stable than many other woods. They also tend to be less expensive than other hardwoods. You won’t find maple at your local home center, but most lumberyards have a good selection of it.

Oak

Oak is one of the most used woods for furniture. Available in two varieties — red and white — oak is strong (hardness of about 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and easy to work with. White oak is preferred for furniture-making because it has a more attractive figure than red oak (white oak is also resistant to moisture and can be used on outdoor furniture).

This is one wood that can be found quarter-sawn (the most stable cutting option available). In fact, quarter-sawn white oak is less expensive than some other hardwoods like cherry, for instance. The grain has a beautiful “ray flake” pattern to it. Red oak can be found at most home centers, but if you want white oak, make a trip to the lumberyard.

Poplar

Poplar is one of the less expensive hardwoods. It’s also fairly soft (1 in hardness on a scale of 1 to 5), which makes it easy to work with. Poplar has a white color with some green or brown streaks in the heartwood. Because poplar is not the most beautiful wood, it’s rarely used in fine furniture and if it is, it’s almost always painted. Poplar can be a good choice for drawers (where it won’t be seen) because it is stable and inexpensive. You can find poplar at larger home centers, but a lumberyard will have a better selection.

Teak

Teak is becoming rarer as the days go on, but it is the staple for fine outdoor furniture. Teak is highly weather-resistant and beautiful (not to mention expensive — can you believe almost $24 a board foot?). Teak has an oily feel and a golden-brown color. It rates a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5 for hardness and is only available from larger lumberyards and specialty suppliers.

Walnut

With a hardness of about 4 on a 1 to 5 scale, walnut is a rich brown wood that’s easy to work with. Unfortunately, walnut is somewhat expensive (usually around $8 a board foot) and finding large boards for big projects is getting difficult. In spite of this, walnut is still a great wood to work with and lends itself nicely for use as accents and inlays to dress up a project. You won’t find walnut at your local home center and you may need to special order it from a lumberyard if you want a large quantity.

A symbol (asterisk) in a written stitch pattern indicating that whatever follows gets repeated.

A symbol (bullet) in a written stitch pattern indicating that whatever follows gets repeated.

A synthetic fiber used to make yarn that mimics the look and feel of natural materials.

1. The Afghan crochet stitch produces a rather solid fabric that closely resembles a knitted fabric. 2. An afghan (lowercase a) is a soft blanket or shawl, crocheted or knitted, often in a geometric design

Abbreviation for approximately.

To knit or crochet stitches at an angle on the back (or wrong) side of a fabric, producing a pattern in which the stitches overlap.

A type of crochet stitch in which you insert your hook around the post of a stitch that’s one or more rows below the current row, creating raised patterns that appear to recede on the side of the fabric facing you.

A stitch used to assemble knitted pieces by using a tapestry needle, going in and out of the stitches in knitted fabrics.

Yarn wound around a cardboard center or an open hole.

A knitted border on a piece of knitted fabric that keeps the center edge from stretching; adds a neat trim to an otherwise rough-looking edge; and creates a place for fastenings such as buttons. Most often appears on cardigan sweaters.

1. A type of knitting increase that leaves a horizontal bar under the increased stitch. 2. In filet crochet, a long space that crosses over the two blocks or spaces, or the one lacet, below it.

A knitting stitch pattern that creates a fabric that looks like a woven basket.

Knitting pattern abbreviation for beginning.

Crochet pattern abbreviation for between.

To make a finished edge by securing the knitted stitches in the last row worked, which prevents unraveling.

A crochet stitch used to assemble crocheted pieces, adding some stability to the backside of a seam made with long stitches, such as triple crochet.

1. (verb) To wet down or steam a piece of knitting or crochet in order to coax it into its final shape. The moisture and/or heat smoothes out uneven stitches and straightens out wavy, rolling edges. 2. (noun) The actual crocheted substance of a filet crochet design.

Wooden sock- or mitten-shaped template with biscuit-type holes cut out to aid air circulation when blocking a knitted or crocheted piece.

A flat surface made from a material that you can stick a pin into, often marked with a 1-inch grid to aid in blocking a knitted or crocheted piece.

Long, slightly flexible stainless steel wires in various lengths that you thread through the edges of your knitted pieces so that you can pin a knitted or crocheted piece into place for blocking without the edges becoming scalloped at the pin sites.

Crochet pattern abbreviation for back loop only.

A piece of shaped plastic used to keep colored yarns separate while knitting or crocheting with multiple colors and strands of yarn. You wrap one color of yarn per bobbin. Commonly used in Fair Isle and intarsia knitting.

A highly bumpy, textured yarn composed of loops.

A knitting stitch that has the same look and feel as seed stitch, but on a larger scale.

A thick, heavy fabric into which raised patterns have been woven.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 4 back, meaning a cable worked over 4 stitches from behind your work.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 4 front, meaning a cable worked over 4 stitches in front of your work.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 6 back, meaning a cable worked over 6 stitches from behind your work.

Knit pattern abbreviation for cable 6 front, meaning a cable worked over 6 stitches in front of your work.

A knit pattern in which you cross one group of stitches over another by knitting them out of order.

A short knitting needle that’s point at both ends, has a divot or curve toward the middle, and is used to hold stitches temporarily while you work on their neighbors.

When knitting or crocheting with different colors, the process of moving yarn not in use to the next position it will be used by working it into the stitches being made in another color, rather than fastening off and rejoining the yarn with each color change.

Create a series of loops on one needle as a knitted starting row. The opposite is to bind off or cast off.

Crocheting or knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for contrasting color.

A simple, common crocheting stitch used to make a crochet piece’s foundation and to start new rows.

A type of yarn material (usually made of rayon or cotton) with an attractive appearance and velvety texture.

Knitting pattern that makes the fabric form arrow-like shapes.

A crocheting or knitting technique that works the stitches in a continuous, spiral-like fashion without turning the piece; also called crocheting or knitting in the round.

A knitting needle designed especially for circular knitting, made up of one long double-pointed needle in a circular shape.

A set of crochet stitches that you work across an equal number of stitches and join together at the top, forming a triangle shape that resembles an upside-down shell stitch.

Color combination.

Knitting style in which you hold the yarn in your left hand and pick the stitches through each loop.

A soft, white natural fiber from plants, often made into yarn.

Worked like a single crochet stitch, but from left to right, rather than right to left.

A style of embroidery that’s worked with any type of yarn, rather than thread.

A kind of needlework in which loops of a yarn are interwoven by means of a single hooked needle, or crochet hook.

A specialized needle with a hook at one end used to create crochetwork.

To knit or crochet stitches at an angle, producing a pattern in which the stitches overlap; crosses can be in the back or front of a stitched fabric.

A type of needlework, usually done with thread, in which stitches are crossed in the form of an X on some surface.

A band or fold at the end of a sleeve.

Removing stitches from a crocheted or knitted row to create a piece with sophisticated shaping; abbreviated dec.

One of the most common crochet stitches, it’s about twice as tall as a single crochet; abbreviated dc. Compare with single crochet.

Decreasing 2 stitches at the same time; abbreviated dbl dec.

Increasing 2 stitch in the same place; abbreviated dbl inc.

A long space in filet crochet that crosses over the two blocks or spaces, or the one lacet, below it.

A tall crochet stitch that creates a loose and holey fabric.

Knitting needle that has a point at each end.

How a knitted or crocheted fabric falls, including how much movement the fabric allows.

Adding loops to your crochet hook by crocheting a row onto a foundation chain.

A knit stitch or purl stitch that has fallen off the knitting needle, leaving that stitch unworked.

A simple way of adding an additional color to your knitting without actually knitting with that color; instead, you embroider the additional color on the fabric, mimicking the stitch it covers.

The batch of dye with which a certain yarn was colored.

The quality or condition of being elastic, meaning springy, flexible, and resilient.

To decorate a fabric with a design in needlework, usually by using embroidery floss.

A style of knitting in which the knitter holds the yarn in his or her right hand and wraps it around the right-hand (RH) needle as he or she creates stitches.

1. A small hole through which you pass something, such as a button. 2. A type of lace pattern characterized by small openwork motifs distributed over a solid fabric.

A liquid medium that you apply to a worked piece during blocking, which dries invisible and makes your fabric rigid.

A kind of knitted lace pattern composed of nothing but the simplest lace-making unit — a yarn over followed (or preceded) by a decrease.

Knitting technique, also called stranding, that involves color patterns using more than one color in a row. You can work with two strands of yarn, carrying them along the back of your work, and picking up and dropping them as needed.

A filet crochet stitch that looks somewhat like a V and is worked across five stitches or the width of two spaces.

To cut the yarn in a crocheted piece and then draw it through a loop on the crochet hook at the end of the design or the end of that particular yarn’s use in the design.

To transform knitting or crochetwork into a dense, sturdy fabric by running the finished piece through the washing machine.

A crochet technique that imitates a 17th-century form of lace worked on mesh netting stretched across a frame, which has evolved into a series of blocks and spaces that form a design.

Wool from a sheep or similar animal.

The strand on the wrong side of loose stitches that connects those stitches.

A soft, loosely twisted thread or yarn used in embroidery.

A crochet stitch pattern abbreviation for front loop only.

A crochet or knitting stitch pattern abbreviation meaning follows or following.

A series of chain stitches that creates your first row of crochet.

A border or trimming of cords or threads, hanging loose or tied in bunches.

To knit or crochet stitches at an angle on the front (or right) side of a fabric, producing a pattern in which the stitches overlap.

A type of crochet stitch in which you insert your hook around the post of a stitch that’s one or more rows below the current row, creating raised patterns on the surface of the fabric facing you.

A knitting stitch that you create by simply knitting (or purling) every row.

The number of knitted or crocheted stitches and rows there are to an inch of fabric.

A way to join two knitted pieces that mock knits by using a tapestry needle, creating a very stretchy and almost invisible join.

A crochet stitch in between a single crochet and a double crochet in height, which you work by drawing the yarn through three loops on the crochet hook.

A knitting stitch that creates a fabric that looks and feels like a woven fabric.

A technique used to make combination stitches, such as the puff or cluster. The stitch is worked only partway, and then finished at the end of the combination.

A large circle of yarn twisted into a figure-8 shape.

A type of yarn that has been blended from a number of different-colored or -dyed fleeces, and then spun; muted in color.

A border on a garment or piece of cloth, usually made by folding the edge and sewing it down.

A technique used to knit a cord that curls in on itself.

To add stitches to a row so that the row has more stitches than the previous row.

A knitting technique that works with different colors without using floats; instead, each color area has its own strand of yarn, and you intertwine the yarns when it’s time to work in another color.

To connect separate pieces of knitting or crochet by using one of a variety of techniques.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knit 2 stitches together.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knit in stitch below

An explanation of symbols used in a stitch chart.

1. (verb) To make cloth by interconnecting loops of yarn or thread in rows of stitches by using a pair of special needles. 2. (noun) A particular stitch in knitting that goes into the stitch from front to back.

A crochet stitch that looks like rows of Vs nesting in the row below, much like a knitting knit stitch.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knit stitch through the back of the loop.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for knitwise (as if to knit).

A fabric knitted or crocheted in ornamental designs with various-sized holes.

A fancy crochet stitch that looks somewhat like a V and is worked across five stitches or the width of two spaces.

Left-hand needle; the knitting needle that you hold in your left hand.

A slick, smooth strand of floss or yarn that you thread with a tapestry needle through the last row of stitches below a mistake you’ve made in knitted lace, which allows you to put stitches back on your needle if you rip out too many when correcting the mistake.

A yarn, cloth, or thread made of flax, a plant fiber.

Description of a stitch that’s still on the knitting needle.

A single crochet stitch that you work into either the tops of stitches or spaces between stitches one or more rows below the current row, creating a vertical spike of yarn that extends over several rows of stitches.

1. The section of yarn wrapped around your crochet hook or knitting needle with which you work to form new stitches. 2. Three or more crochet chain stitches worked in a row.

A knitting increase in which you create a new, separate stitch between 2 stitches that are already on the needle.

A type of plied yarn in which the plies are different colors.

A type of knitting stitch that creates a practically invisible and nicely flexible seam for joining pieces side by side.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for main color, used in multicolored patterns.

A fuzzy yarn made from the long, silky hair of the Angora goat, often mixed with other fibers.

A knitting pattern of repeating geometric shapes.

A knitting stitch that’s an elongated version of seed stitch, in which you work 2 rows of the same sequence of knits and purls, then alternate them.

A crocheting or knitting design with a repeating figure or shape.

A knitting needle; an eyeless, usually long, needle of metal or plastic that has a blunt point at one or both ends, used in pairs when knitting by hand.

A synthetic fiber with great strength and elasticity.

A lace pattern that has more openings than solid spaces in its composition.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for purl 2 stitches together.

The sequence of crochet or knit stitches that, when repeated, create a certain fabric; either written out with abbreviations or presented in a chart. Abbreviated as pat.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for purl in the stitch below.

1. To use knitting needles and yarn to pull up new loops along a knitted edge and knit a border on that edge. 2. To fix a dropped stitch.

A little round-shaped crochet stitch that add a decorative touch to an edging or fill an empty space in a mesh design.

1 (noun) A small, thin piece of rustproof metal, often T-shaped. 2. (verb) To secure a knitted or crocheted fabric to the blocking board by using rustproof, non-plastic pins.

A finished slit on a garment that has a fastener, such as on the collar of a shirt, to make it easy to put on and take off.

The number of smaller strands twisted together to form the larger single strand of yarn.

A type of synthetic compound, such as nylon.

A fabric made from synthetic material also used in making plastics.

An ornamental ball or tuft of yarn often attached to garments and curtains.

A crochet stitch that forms a rounded, compact oval that stands out from the fabric.

A crochet stitch made by inserting your hook around the post of a stitch that’s one or more rows below the current row; can be worked in the front or back of the post.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for pass slipped stitch over; used for decreasing.

A crochet stitch that gently puffs up into an oval shape.

A knitting stitch that you create by working a knit stitch backwards, going into the stitch from back to front.

A crochet stitch that looks like rows of rounded bumps, much like a knitting purl stitch.

A synthetically produced textile fiber produced by pressing a cellulose solution through small holes and solidifying it into filaments.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for remains or remaining.

A given stitch sequence or combination. Stitch patterns are based on stitch repeats and row repeats. A given stitch sequence repeats horizontally across a row. A series of rows of given stitch sequences repeats vertically. Together they make up a stitch pattern that makes the fabric smooth, bumpy, cabled, or striped.

Right-hand needle; the knitting needle that you hold in your right hand.

A crochet or knit stitch pattern that creates textured vertical stripes.

To undo knitted stitches by removing the loops from the needle and pulling the yarn to unravel the stitches.

A knitting stitch pattern in whcih purl stitches make wavy lines.

A single line of stitches crocheted or knitted in the round; abbreviated rnd.

A single line of stitches crocheted or knitted in a flat pattern.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for right side, meaning the side that will be displayed when used/worn.

The horizontal strand of yarn that connects the first stitch on each needle when working a make 1 increase.

A small outline drawing of each piece of a knitted or crocheted project pattern.

1. (verb) Joining two pieces of material with a line of stitches. 2. (noun) The line along which two pieces of material are joined.

A knitting stitch that has a regular texture of little bumps that look a bit like seeds.

An extra stitch at the edge of your knitted fabric that (in combination with others) serves to create an even, stable border. Also spelled selvage.

To join or fasten with stitches using a sewing needle and thread.

The portion of a crochet hook that holds the loops you’re working with; its diameter largely determines the size of the stitches.

A projection, such as a ring, on the back of a button by which you sew it onto a fabric.

A crochet stitch that involves working from 3 to 5 double crochet stitches all in the same stitch; the pattern looks like a seashell.

A yarn material made from the soft, shiny fiber produced by silkworms from their cocoons.

A long crocheted strip of very short vertical single crochet rows.

A compact, fundamental crochet stitch that creates a tight, dense fabric. Compare with double crochet.

The most common form of yarn packaging; an oblong, machine-wound bundle of yarn.

To move a stitch from one knitting needle to the other without working that stitch.

The first stitch you form on your knitting needle or crochet hook to begin a project.

A flat or small knitting or crochet stitch that you use mostly as a utility stitch or a technique for activities like making a seam or joining a new ball of yarn.

The opening in a piece of crochetwork created by working 1 or more chain stitches in between other stitches.

A process to block your crochetwork or knitting by spraying the fabric with water to dampen it, then laying the fabric in the intended shape.

A knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for slip, slip, knit the slip stitches together, which creates a left-slanting decrease.

A tasteless, odorless substance used to stiffen and shape fabrics.

Using a steam iron to block the shape of a knitted or crocheted piece.

A shortcut used to open up a knitted tube in which you sew or crochet two vertical lines of stitches an inch or so apart, then cut the stitches that fall between those lines.

A small ring that you add to your knitting or crochet work to remind you where you need to make a change to your needlework, such as the beginning of a round or the spot to work an increase.

A single loop of yarn worked off a needle in knitting or crocheting.

A knitting stitch which you create by alternating a knit row with a purl row.

To crochet, generally with yarn, onto a crocheted background; resembles embroidery.

1. (verb) To make a sample of knitted fabric for various reasons, including measuring gauge and practice. 2. (noun) The knitted fabric sample created by swatching.

A tool that looks like a wooden umbrella, which is specially designed to help untwist a hank of yarn.

The loose bit of yarn left after you finish knitting or crocheting your pattern.

A large-eye needle with a blunt point that you use to sew knitted pieces together.

An ornamental tuft of threads of equal length, hanging loosely from a knob or from the knot by which they’re tied together.

1. (noun) A light, fine, string-like length of material made up of two or more spun fibers. 2. (verb) To put a thread through the eye of a sewing or tapestry needle, or to work that threaded needle through a fabric.

The part of a crochet hook that does the actual hooking of the yarn and pulls that yarn through a stitch.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for together.

A type of closure that has a ring on one end and bar on the other; the bar slides through the ring vertically and then lays on the ring horizontally to keep it from coming back through.

A crochet stitch which is slightly longer than the double crochet and which creates longer openings between the stitches, producing a very loose fabric.

A crochet stitch that involves creating a length equivalent to 5 chain stitches by using a yarn over 4 times.

Reversing your crochet work so that you can start a new row of stitches.

The 1 or more chain stitches that you crochet after you’ve turned your work and are about to begin your next row so that your yarn is at the height necessary to work the first stitch of the next row or round.

A wool yarn with a background color flecked with bits of fiber in different colors.

A smaller version of a knit cable that consists of 2 stitches, 1 crossing over its neighbor.

Dyed in several different colors or shades, such as yarn.

A synthetic material often used to make rayon and other synthetic yarns.

A crochet stitch made up of a double crochet, chain, and double crochet stitch all in the same stitch, forming a V shape.

To work the remaining bit of yarn into already-created stitches to hide the tail.

The thickness of a yarn.

An ancient name for a knitted horizontal stripe.

Getting a piece of knitting or crochetwork completely wet in a sink or basin of water before laying it out to shape it.

A stitch used to join crocheted rows of short stitches, such as single crochet, worked with a tapestry or sewing needle and yarn or thread.

A machine with a crank that turns a spindle, which can wind and unwind a skein of yarn attached to the winder.

Yarn spun from the fibers of sheep, goat, llama, or other animal hair.

An adjustable wooden frame with arms that you can dress with your wet, knitted or crocheted garment to block that garment.

Crochet a designated stitch or stitches across the whole length of a row.

A smooth, firmly twisted thread or yarn made from long-staple wool combed to make the fibers lie in the same direction.

A crocheting and knitting stitch pattern abbreviation for wrong side, meaning the side that will be hidden when used/worn.

Any fiber, such as wool or nylon, spun into strands for knitting or crocheting.

The hand that’s feeding the yarn from the ball or skein. In crochet, the hand not holding the hook.

1. A knitting method of making an extra stitch on your needle and creating a deliberate little hole in your fabric, as in lace. 2. The most basic step to every crochet stitch, in which you wrap the yarn over your crochet hook

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